Valencia bakes in the sun by day, smells of oranges at night and burns entirely once a year, during the world-renowned Las Fallas Festival, the city’s most important holiday – when the noise of fireworks and the stink of gunpowder fills the air for several sleepless nights in March.

Monsters walk the streets every March

Valencia, the third biggest city of Spain, is sometimes perceived as the “ugly sister” of Madrid and Barcelona. A grossly inaccurate comparison, but one at least that has helped it stave off the invading crowds who prefer to visit her aforementioned siblings. In fact Valencia is undeniably picturesque, the wriggling streets of its Old Town betraying both Roman and Arabian influences and punctuated with meticulously maintained orange gardens and open squares full of outdoor cafes that bustle until 3am. Girding the Old Town is the dried bed of the river Turia, a beautiful green belt of attractions including the amazing Bioparc immersion zoo and La Ciudad de las Artes y Las Ciencias. The latter is one of Valencia’s most recognisable symbols, a futuristic white city designed by avant garde local architect, Santiago Calatrava.

If that wasn’t enough, the city’s never-failing weather (with an average of 15 degrees on Christmas Day!) and long stretch of Mediterranean beaches make Valencia even easier to fall in love with.

Best of the Beaten Track

Valencia’s heart remains in its medieval Old Town, and the best spot to start any walk is at its central point, the huge gothic Cathedral of Our Lady (you can find it located between two cosy, medieval squares: La Plaza de la Reina and La Plaza de la Virgen). Remarkably the Cathedral holds the very chalice which many historians believe to be the true Holy Grail (someone really should have told Indiana Jones), and after you’ve paid your homage you can enjoy some of the best views in the city by climbing the Cathedral’s highest tower, El Micalet. Casting an eye over the medieval architecture of the Old Town it doesn’t take much imagination to picture the city’s greatest hero, the Moor-fighting knight El Cid Campeador, being hoisted triumphantly through the city streets.

Take a walk in the Old Town

From La Plaza de la Virgen it’s good to take a slow stroll down Knights’ Street (Calle de los Caballeros). Here’s where the famous El Carmen quarter starts. Strolling down the narrow streets, crossing La Plaza del Negrito and heading South, you will reach the stone building of La Lonja de Seda: the old silk market and one of the greatest examples of lay architecture from medieval Europe. In front of La Lonja you can see the huge art nouveau Mercado Central building, one of the largest indoor markets in Spain. Fresh seafood is delivered here every single day, although nota bene: the city’s speciality, paella valenciana, doesn’t in fact contain any seafood whatsoever – originating from the nearby marshes true paella consists of rice, saffron, garlic, chicken and rabbit. Entire rabbits with no skin and plucked roosters’ heads make some of the market’s stands look quite spooky.

For a true Spanish experience the strong-stomached might want to catch a bull fight at La Plaza de Toros, the second biggest bull ring in Spain (after Madrid), located next to La Plaza del Ayuntamiento and the Main Train Station (Estación del Norte).

Hipster’s Guide

Streetwise in El Carmen

Surprisingly, El Carmen, Valencia’s most famous district, has managed to retain its authentic feel, despite its location in the centre of the Old Town and being a firm favourite on the tourist track. The district is renowned for its quirky look and late opening hours of its tiny bars, whilst the liberal vibe has also made it a Mecca for hippies. Two of the best spots to start a Valencian night out are on La Plaza del Negrito and Baja Street; but if you really want to escape fellow foreigners head to the surroundings of Ruzafa Street instead. Here inconspicuous bars, scenic squares and gardens excude a chilled-out atmosphere and you can often find live music by street musicians. One recommended place is Cafe Ubik, a small bookshop-cafe where you can pop in to have breakfast or start to your day with a glass of red wine (yup, Spaniards do it!), meet up with friends or just swap some second-hand books.

Experience & Events

It would be a sin not to take advantage of the amazing weather conditions that the city has to offer. No wonder that most of the Valencian’s favourite activities take place outdoors. A bike ride along the dried out river Turia is a perfect way to see the best of the green side of the city. Colourful cascades of flowers, exotic trees and fountains line the route eastwards to the final destination of Santiago Calatrava’s La Ciudad de las Artes y Las Ciencias. At the far west end of the old Turia river’s bed, el Parque de la Cabecera is located. Nevermind the distance, because once you’re there, you will feel as if you were five again by taking a ride across the lake in a kitsch swan-shaped gondola.

Over the top? Never...

They say that every Valencia citizen is a fire freak, and this theory is certainly borne out by the city’s most important fiesta, the insane Las Fallas festival. Even though the festival itself lasts only around a week the preparations take place all year, so that, by the middle of March, the city is ready to turn into one vast, extremely noisy, street party. Every important square is adorned with its own Falla, a huge statue made of wood and plastic, often related to current political or social events. Between 15th and 19th of March no one works, children throw firecrackers in parks and public places, the streets are cut off from regular traffic and kiosks selling doughnuts and sweets appear all around the city. Some of the locals escape out of town, while others prepare for the upcoming sleepless nights, as the bars are allowed to stay open until 6am each morning. During the last night of Las Fallas, “la Nit de Foc”, the entire city burns as all the figures are set on fire at the same time. Only the winning statue is spared, and preserved in the Las Fallas Museum to be admired for all antiquity. Arguably the most impressive aspect of the festival is the impeccable state of the streets the very next day. Clean and empty, they confuse the visitor by giving the impression nothing happened at all and you just woke up after some crazy dream…

More festival madness takes place on the last Wednesday of August every year, just outside Valencia, in the village of Bunol, in the form of the world’s most famous food fight – La Tomatina. Armageddon with tomatoes.

Pillow Talk

Home Backpackers is located in the very centre of El Carmen district and, with its big kitchen and common room, is the perfect spot to make new friends and meet fellow backpackers. The only annoying thing is the lack of elevator (the building is 4-floor high), but in the end who cares when a huge sunny terrace greets you at the top of the roof? If you’re looking for a more intimate atmopshere you can go for Home Youth Hostel or Rooms Deluxe Hostel which offer nicely-designed customised private apartments and small shared rooms, instead of bunk beds and crowded dormitories. For the most demanding and sophisticated visitors, there’s nothing like the luxurious, Las Arenas Hotel, located at Malvarrosa beach. The hotel has become famous for its impressive gardens, terraces and almost one century old spa and swimming pool complex.

Fork Out

The Spanish equivalent of afternoon tea

The Spanish love food and the day’s rhythym is ruled by their eating schedule. A morning coffee with a sweet snack for breakfast, a solid bocadillo (baguette with plenty of yummy things inside) for lunch, then around 4pm (after their sacred siesta at 2pm) it’s time for delicious chocolate con churros (hot chocolate with a variety of a doughnut); and then finally a late, long and rather lazy dinner (most restaurants don’t open before 8pm) in the evening. Tapas is of course the famous food of Spain, and these small dishes can be served en masse as dinner or more often simply as snacks with beer. The best places for tapas in Valencia is La Tapeta del Carme (Calle Los Borja 4). The prices are very reasonable, the food is home-made and always fresh and the number of fully-booked tables tells its own story. Wednesday is the discount day at 100 Montaditos, another tapas bar (a bit more touristic, though), located at Plaza de la Reina. People start to queue for a table at 4-5pm, as you get any type of tapas you like for just one 1 euro (plus beer for the same price!). On the other side of the Square, La Taberna de la Reina offers an alternative way of having tapas. Pieces of bread with toppings of all kinds are displayed on the bar, skewered on cocktail sticks: you pick up the ones you like and pay once you’re done, counting the number of sticks left on your plate. If you’re searching for a more upmarket dining experience, the chic but friendly Ness restaurant is highly recommended, with Valencia-based, fusion cuisine at its best.

Drop In

Mojitos at Malvarrosa

The motto of Valencia people, “vivir sin dormir” leaves you in no doubt of their life outlook. The bars are open all day long and they are followed by the clubs, which open around 2am and don’t close until the break of dawn. The party style has changed over the decades though. In the early 90s, La Ruta de Bacalao (suburban, beach disco houses, offering a great deal of drugs mixed with techno and rave tunes) echoed all around Spain. Those days are gone. Today, in summertime, all the bars along Malvarrosa beach throng with people, often still partying when the first rays of sun creep over the horizon. Las Animas Puerto is the best spot on the strip with great views from its numerous terraces, although sadly the music is a weak point. Outside summer the party is yet more raucous, partly because Valencia is the second biggest city in Europe when it comes to number of foreign exchange students (after Barcelona). The student club zone is Polo y Peyrolon Street and around here even a mid-week night can turn into a never-ending fiesta. For some alternative music seekers, Picaddilly Downtown club can be recommended. Previously a brothel, today it is a hidden club of the old town with some good indie rock music on. Located on Quart Street, Venial is a gay club that offers one of the best parties in town. On the same street a good electro spot can be found: 47 Social Club.

Getting There

The local airport Valencia-Manises is located just outside the city and it has been recently connected to a new, quick and comfortable suburban metro line, and now it takes only 20 minutes to get there for the price of 1,70 EUR. The airport offers cheap flights (Ryanair, EasyJet, Vueling) to most of the mayor cities of Spain and Europe (London, Milan, Paris, Oslo, Dublin, Rome, etc.) and regular airlines, such as Spanair or Iberia, that fly also outside Europe. The local train service is very reliable, yet the coaches tend to be cheaper. The coaches are the best way to visit the nearby cities, such as Alicante, for example. It takes about 5 hours to travel to Barcelona by train, and just 3,5 hour to get to Madrid by bus.

More Juice

Probably the best two sources of Valencia info online are Hola Valencia and Extra Valencia, whilst needless to say the bigs guns like Lonely Planet publish their content online.

Hard Copy

Published in 2010, the LP Valencia Encounter is a reliable companion for any rucksack or just-small-enough-to-count-as-hand-luggage trolley case. Valencia’s most famous son Vicente Blasco Ibanez is one of the most talented authors to put pen to paper, and his WWI epic The Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse will be worth its weight in gold, while Blood and Sand is surely the best novel ever written about the art of bullfighting. Finally the first novel written in Spain was penned and published in Valencia – check out Tirant The White, for the kind of chivalrous romp which Cervantes went on to parody.

Bookmark it on Facebook, Twitter etc

Hide Sites

New York. Concrete jungle where dreams are made, the city that never sleeps, the big apple. Traversing New York City is like finding over 100 different countries fit into one small island, 13 miles long and two miles wide. Including all five boroughs, this city of 8.2 million people has such a wealth of diversity and opportunity that whatever you’re in the mood for you can find it 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

Yoga in Union Square

Best of the Beaten Track

New York City is a much safer place now than it was, say, 10 or 15 years ago. Where at one time, visitors were warned to stay away from areas such as Central Park and Times Square, now they have become tourist hotspots. Although some native New Yorkers despise the “Disneyfication” of Times Square, violent crime there has decreased by 75 percent since 1990, while Central Park should be considered a must-see for anyone visiting New York.

New York park life

If you must visit Times Square, do so to procure a discounted Broadway or off-Broadway ticket at the TKTS booth located at 47th Street in the heart of the square. Get your ticket quickly and avoid the overpriced touristy restaurants for some cheap and ethnic cuisine two blocks west on 9th Avenue.

The Statue of Liberty is another must-see for first timers. If you wish to avoid the ferry to the island itself, take the free Staten Island Ferry which leaves from Battery Park. Make sure to stand on the northern side of the ship to get the best view of Lady Liberty.

Hipster’s Guide

New York City is a city of green spaces, especially in the summer. Union Square Park is a great place to check out the freakishly dressed, aspiring musicians and artists, as well as the gigantic farmer’s market which takes place every Wednesday and Saturday. During the summer, there is free WiFi available, and even free yoga and fitness classes.

Poor exhibits...

Experience & Events

Jazz is the soundtrack of New York, so to partake in some live music visit the Village Vanguard, one of the most venerable spots for jazz in the city. The Vanguard Jazz Orchestra plays every Monday night and tickets are $20. The Blue Note is also a hotspot in the Village. For less expensive or touristy options, head uptown to Smoke, where you can find nights with no cover or Cleopatra’s Needle which never has a cover. Summer is always a great time to visit NYC thanks to the street fairs which take place every weekend. It is also a great time for innovative theatre festivals. The Midtown International Theatre Festival and the Fringe Festival offer new works from cutting edge playwrights, all for about a quarter of the price of standard Broadway fare.

Pillow Talk

Want to a learn a little during your hotel stay? Located just steps from Grand Central Station, The Library Hotel offers guests rooms stocked with art and books representative of the ten different categories of the Dewey Decimal System. The Empire Hotel is a luxurious oasis located in the heart of the Lincoln Center area, complete with one of the most exclusive finds in the city, the infamous Pool Deck that was featured in Sex and the City. Big Apple Hostel is a great choice for those who want to stay in a great location, in the centre of Times Square for a fraction of the cost of some of the higher end hotels.

Fork Out

Italian fare at Arthur Avenue market

Drop In

Rockin' at Rodeo Bar

Getting There

With three major airports, pretty much every major airline flies into New York City. You can take the city bus from LaGuardia into the city, or hop on one of the shuttles which drop you off at Grand Central Station. Penn Station and Grand Central Station are hubs for train travel, and the Port Authority Bus Terminal welcomes in buses.

More Juice

Time Out New York is the go to guide for New York City events. Published weekly, it lists events for the week, as well as theatre and movie reviews and museum and gallery guides. Some online resources include Pulse JFK, Postabon, Daily Candy, and Flavorpill, all free, and all of which detail free, often obscure/alternative, New York City events.

Hard Copy & Silver Screen

J.D. Salinger is the ultimate New York author, so any book by him, especially Catcher in the Rye would be worthwhile reading before arriving in the Big Apple. I’m a sucker for DK Eyewitness Guides, and the New York City one offers gorgeous photos coupled with some great suggestions. For a peek into New York’s seedier past, check out The Godfather (the novel, which inspired the film). Films-wise take your pick from the works of Scorcese, Woody Allen and countless others.

Soundtrack to the City

Take the A Train – Ella Fitzergerald
New York State of Mind – Billy Joel
Empire State of Mind – Jay-Z feat. Alicia Keys
New York City – John Lennon
Park Avenue (Killer Bitch Soundtrack) – Dead Family

View New York City Break Map in a larger map

Bookmark it on Facebook, Twitter etc

Hide Sites

If there’s one thing Madrid won’t tolerate, it’s being second best. Situated in the heart of the country, the city prides itself on being the pinnacle of Spanish culture, art and style. Madrid’s buzzing atmosphere, diverse cultural events and resplendent architecture – even the Post Office building is a work of art here – more than justify its status as Spain’s capital. Yet this beautiful, land-locked city is often shunned in favour of Barcelona’s coastal charms.

Gay parade on Madrid

But Madrid isn’t the kind of city to take this lying down. In true Spanish defiance, Madrid has refused to pander to the mainstream tourist trail and instead celebrates its understated, authentic atmosphere. From its glorious Art Deco buildings, such as the Edificio Metropolis, to its picturesque cobbled streets, Madrid oozes an effortless style. There’s no need to boast about the capital’s world-class shopping, rich culture or relentlessly energetic nightlife, you’ll discover them when you get here. An easy-going and friendly city, Madrid casually invites visitors rather than demanding their attention. The Madrileños don’t feel the need to talk up their city: they prefer to sit back, enjoy the sun-soaked atmosphere and pity those who are missing out.

Best of the Beaten Track

The buzzing Gran Vía area is a Mecca for fun-loving residents and tourists alike. Madrid’s answer to Oxford Street, Piccadilly Circus and Broadway all rolled in to one, this is where you find the city’s main entertainment. Enjoy a grandiose musical at Plaza de Callao, treat yourself to a cocktail on the rooftop of the Círculo de Bellas Artes, or simply browse the shopping haven of Gran Vía and Sol.

Dancing in the park

If all this leaves you thirsty for culture, then head to the Prado and Reina Sofía museums. Art-lovers flock to both in droves to ponder some of Europe’s most famous artwork. While the Prado showcases earlier artists such as El Greco and Goya, the Reina Sofía houses more contemporary work. Picasso’s Guernica is the museum’s top crowd-puller and visitors stop in their tracks to stare at this mind-boggling interpretation of the Spanish Civil War.

When your energy starts to flag, the Parque del Buen Retiro provides the perfect playground for a lazy afternoon in the sun. An oasis of greenery in Madrid’s hectic core, visitors come here to soak up the rays among the park’s balmy trees and landscape gardens. But the Retiro isn’t just a pretty face – cutting-edge artwork is always on display here and Madrid’s performers regularly grace the park’s picturesque paths. Although if it’s pure piece and quiet you’re after, the lake area is best avoided – a zealous drummer will usually spring to life here around lunchtime, with energetic sun-worshippers dancing to the beat.

Hipsters’ Guide

Malasaña is the district of choice among the young and trendy Madrid crowd. The eclectic mix of cluttered cafés, offbeat bars and boutique shops is a haven for those seeking to escape the McDonald’s and Starbucks chains of the city centre. While the area may not be picture perfect – graffiti adorns many of Malasaña’s walls and shutters – its cobbled streets exude a quirky charm.

The colourful and quirky Malasana district

Calle Fuencarral is best for designer boutiques and independent outlets, while chic bars and cafés lie on the neighbouring side streets. Mexican bar La Botica de la Condesa is always home to a lively atmosphere, with plenty of unusual cocktails and authentic light bites on the menu. And if you’re in the mood for a more tranquil setting, the artistic Café Manuela invites passers-by to while away the afternoon – board games are even on hand for when the conversation runs dry.

Experience and Events

Nowhere knows how to throw a fiesta like Madrid, and every local holiday invites a hedonistic mix of celebratory events, processions and revelry. San Isidro is perhaps the best time to experience Madrid in full party mode, marking the annual homage to Madrid’s rural patron saint. Celebrations start on May 15th, as Madrileños don ceremonial dress and open air performances take place in every corner of the city. The Plaza Mayor is always particularly lively, often playing host to traditional dance and theatre productions.

Two for a euro...

The bustling El Rastro market is also a great way to experience a colourful slice of Madrid while picking up a thrifty deal. Traders have set up their stalls here every Sunday for nearly five centuries, attracting tourists and bargain hunters alike. Granted, it may take a while to find a gem among the maze of market stalls, but you’ll soon find haggling can get you everywhere.

Of course, no football fan comes to Madrid without paying a visit to Real Madrid’s legendary stadium. Football is a sacred sport here, but take care if you expect every local bar to be backing Real Madrid all the way. There’s a bitter rivalry between Madrid’s flagship team and the underdog Atlético club, said to be supported by the ‘real Madrileños’. Proudly displaying a Cristiano Ronaldo shirt can attract more abuse than you may expect.

Pillow Talk

The Hotel de las Letras is one of Madrid’s most stylish haunts, designed around the unusual combination of luxury and literacy. While guests are treated to five-star surroundings, including a sleek rooftop bar overlooking Gran Vía, there’s also a relaxing library for when the jet-set lifestyle becomes too much. Despite the cheesy ‘Room mate’ gimmick – each hotel in the chain is named after an attractive slumber partner – the Mario hotel is perfect for reasonably-priced rooms in the central district. With a rooftop bar, modern decor and complimentary fruit at reception, you’ll still feel like you’re in the lap of luxury. And if you’re on a budget, Cat’s Hostel offers cheap and cheerful accommodation, with the best value bar in the city.

Fork Out

Top tapas in the El Tigre cider house

Eating ham is practically a religion here in Madrid, with many tapas bars choosing to devote themselves to various types of jamón iberico. For a taste of authentic tapas without splashing the cash, head down to El Tigre, where every drink is served with a selection of the day’s dishes. This is best visited during the week though – weekends can see crowds rushing in for the prospect of free chorizo and patatas bravas. Meanwhile, Casa Lucio delivers top class Castillian food, serving traditional dishes such as cocido (Madrid-style stew). And fear not if you’re vegetarian – Malasaña’s restaurants offer plenty of delicious alternatives to ham. Check out the extravagant Isla del Tesoro (’Treasure Island’) for the best meat-free cuisine Madrid has to offer.

Drop In

Madrid’s nightlife is famously energetic and continues well into the morning, when revellers hungrily grab a breakfast remedy of chocolate and churros. The central district of Sol is a hub of nocturnal activity, with many frequenting lively, no-frills hotspots such as El Sol. Alternatively, stroll around Malasaña’s bars for a more chilled-out experience – the oriental Areia and authentically Spanish El 2 De are both local favourites. And if it’s pure luxury you’re after, take a trip to the Lolita Lounge for extravagant cocktails, or Kapital for a bling-filled dancefloor and R’n’B beats.

Getting There

Easyjet and Ryanair fly to Madrid from a number of UK airports and other major cities around Europe, with traditional carriers such as BA, Iberia, Air Europa, Vueling and Spanair also operating routes. Trenhotel also run overnight trains from Lisbon and Paris; whilst fast, if not cheap, trains will also get you to and from the likes of Barcelona, Valencia and Sevilla within Spain if Madrid is part of a grander tour.

More Juice

The Time Out website is packed full of ways to enjoy the city, from the most authentic flamenco bars to the best way to spot a local bargain. What Madrid gives travellers a useful area by area guide to the city, while About Madrid has a number of practical tips and links.

Hard Copy & Silver Screen

Guidebooks-wise, Lonely Planet and Eyewitness guides give a great picture of the city, while Frommer’s Madrid Day by Day has plenty of ideas in a handy, pocket-sized format. Depending on your nationality, a story about a Spanish mercenary out to kill two Englishmen in Madrid may or may not be comfortable reading – however the swashbuckling adventures of Captain Alatriste by Pérez-Reverte is the kind of romp Dumas would be proud to pen. Another hugely enjoyable epic is the Manuscript Found in Saragossa, a bizarre series of stories within stories set in Spain by the eccentric Polish Count Potocki. For films set in Madrid, look no further than Abre Los Ojos, the original Spanish (and needless to say infinitely better) version of Vanilla Sky.

Soundtrack to the City

Te Dejo Madrid – Shakira
Desde Madrid – Nika
Madrid – Thalia
Puedes Contar Conmigo – La Oreja de Van Gogh
Barrio – Javier Álvarez

Bookmark it on Facebook, Twitter etc

Hide Sites

There are some cities in Eastern Europe which defy logic. Lviv to Ukrainians, Lwow to Poles, Lvov to Russians, Lemberg to Austrians and Germans, the city is a microcosm of Central European history, a battleground for centuries, truly a meeting place of the east and the west. A city whose name derives from the word ‘lion’ should be indomitable and indeed many have fought over this city, and many have lost it.

Dome sweet dome

At heart, it’s Ukrainian, though the Poles in particular might have something to say about that, having occupied it for over 300 years. Many feel it’s a kind of long-lost half-sister to Krakow. It’s a little shabby, a little edgy if you like, in the Russian style – but at the same time it has an elegance that is pure Austrian and a café culture to match. The scars of the Nazi occupation can be felt in its now-deserted Jewish quarters, and the shackles of half a century of Soviet repression have just been shed, but its previous claim to being one of Central Europe’s most playful and flirtatious cities is re-emerging, just in time for it to play host city in the Euro 2012 tournament. And yet, Lviv remains relatively undiscovered, a budget-traveller’s dream and the perfect place to impress your friends back home that you have really found a hip, up-and-coming and inexpensive destination. Gateway to Ukraine, a tantalizing glimpse of the east and not at all what you might imagine. What are you waiting for?

Best of the Beaten Track…

Lviv is blessed with a plethora of museums and art galleries, and enough mesmerizing buildings to make you want to throw away your rucksack and sell it for an easel and oil paints to take up street art. You could spend days wandering the Unesco-listed old town around Rynek Ploscha (Market Square), popping in and out of churches and cathedrals and relaxing in the myriad of atmospheric cafes, losing yourself in the town’s old-world charm. The good news is that Lviv is compact and easily negotiable on foot, so you need never hop on a bus or get in a taxi to see the main sights.

Old town splendour

It seems unfair to single out one of these magnificent pieces of architecture over any other, but the distinctive round-domed Dominican Cathedral and gothic Latin Cathedral should not be missed. The former is adjacent to the bohemian Armenian quarter which houses the artsy Dzyha café and is perfect for a late morning latte. The neo-Renaissance tower of the Ratusha (town hall) can easily be climbed for amazing views of the surrounding splendour. Prospekt Svobody (or ‘Planta’ as the older locals call the boulevard, referring to the greenery around) is where young and old alike seem to strut their stuff, especially around sunset, as couples come out to hold hands and stroll along this outdoor catwalk. A statue of Taras Shevchenko, national poet and hero, is in the middle of it, while at the southern end stands Polish poet Adam Mickiewicz: symbolic of the schizophrenic Polish/Ukranian identity here and also of the poetic heart beating in Lvivians. Guarding its north side is the splendid turn-of-the-century Solimiya Krushelnytska Lviv Theatre of Opera and Ballet, a sumptuous affair that wouldn’t look out of place in Vienna. For fantastic views over the theatre, go to Panorama restaurant just opposite. Round a day’s sightseeing off by relaxing in Italiys’kyi Dvorek, a romantic hotspot of a café hidden down an alley off the square. This open-air coffee lover’s paradise is a riot of Italianate arches and statues, and if you’re not careful you can waste whole days loafing around here, feeling like you are on a film set – which in way you are, as it has been used as a backdrop on several productions.

Hipsters’ Guide

There is more to Lviv than meets the eye. This is a city which keeps her secrets from the hurrying weekender, and must be delved into over time, savoured at a gentler pace. A stroll to the Castle Hill is a quintessential Lviv experience – from where to plan your alternative sightseeing. On a sunny afternoon, a stroll here will blow away the cobwebs of what will probably have been a fairly heavy dose of life the night before. Reminiscent of the man-made mounds in Krakow, you start to get a feel of the city and its beauty from this vantage point.

Slavic melancholy at its most serene

A short tram ride to the east of the town takes you to Lychakivske Cemetery. Lviv’s answer to Paris’s Pere Lachais; a spectacular but shambling assortment of gravestones, tombs, statues, crosses and floral tributes that is a photographer’s dream, all set in lovely overgrown grounds. This is Slavic melancholy at its most heartbreaking and serenely beautiful. While you’re in this part of town, take a stroll to the nearby open-air museum of Folk Architecture and Life which gives you a real feel for the traditional wooden houses and churches, furniture, clothing and farming life that has shaped this most earthy of countries.

A trip to the Lvivskie Museum of Beer and Brewing is also highly recommended; the small entrance fee is more than compensated for by limitless glasses of delicious frothy beer, and English language tours of this 290-year old cellar will satisfy the curiosity of the most avid hop-lover. This could turn into a boozy night of guzzling if you are lured into the adjoining Robert Dom’s Beer House and get seduced by the litre mugs of freshly poured nectar for around a Euro a pop.

Experiences and Events

The main event occurring in Lviv in the near future is, of course, the Euro 2012 football competition. Although there are doubts in some quarters that the city will be ready in time, particularly with regard to its new stadium, when quizzed Lvivians give a disarming shrug of the shoulders and reply “this is how things work in Ukraine! We will be ready, but we’ll leave it to the last minute!” Fingers crossed, they will. So far however, only the hotels of the city have been given the green light by UEFA. For those not of a footballing bent, the Theatre of Opera and Ballet stages productions daily. Stump up a fraction of what you would pay for a similar production in western Europe, and you will be treated to a 90-piece philharmonic orchestra, more than 40 world-class soloists, a choir and a ballet troupe.

Light and magic

Slightly less high brow, but equally fun, the recently inaugurated Annual Fluorescent Art Festival is a two week extravaganza of glow-in-the-dark bodypainting, music and dance that takes place each June. The Lviv Lumines festival (to give the event its official title) “offers a fun and interactive way of viewing the very specific and engrossing art of fluorescent art” according to the organizers. If that still sounds too cultural for you then you’ll be pleased to know that every May Lviv stages a very special ‘talent’ show, known as ‘Lviv’s Ideal Lady’. The city’s prettiest specimens come under scrutiny not just for their looks, but for their ‘culinary, intellectual and choreographic skills’. Hoo-ah.

Pillow Talk

If Lviv is endowed with enough great hotels to keep UEFA head honcho and stern taskmaster Michel Platini happy, it must be doing something right. From the the post-soviet to the palatial, Lviv suits all pockets. Starting with the budget choices, you can’t go far wrong with the newly-renovated Sun Hostel. Central, homely and very good value, an ensuite double here will set you back little more than 15 Euro a night. Australian Eddie’s Kosmonaut Hostel is typically Lvivian – scruffy but full of character. The Soviet theme and chance to meet cool new friends are your best reason to chuck your rucksack down here. For a true Soviet experience though, try a night at Hotel Lviv. Dour stares from receptionists, attendants noting your comings and goings on each floor and a ‘disco’ downstairs. Still scraping in at most people’s budget range (around 30 Euro a double) comes the George Hotel. Turn-of-the-century chic is reason enough to choose this place, which embodies the term ‘faded grandeur’. Obsequious bell-hops and stiff waiters are all part of the George experience. Just skip down that grand staircase in the morning and pretend you don’t feel like a king. Really splashing out? Go to Hotel Opera at the end of Svobody Prospekt and just feast on that amazing view every mealtime at Panorama.

Fork Out

Chairway to heaven

And then there’s the food… Lviv was once known as a centre of culinary excellence, in Habsburg times. Unfortunately the Russians came in and rather soured things. Luckily, the old times are returning and Lviv’s restaurant scene is starting to flourish again. If you want to transport yourself back to those heady days, make your way to Kupol, a throwback to the 1920’s which seems to effortlessly recreate pre-Soviet decadence with quirky wall decorations and wonky wooden tables and chairs. The eccentrically-decorated little garden is perfect on a sunny spring morning, and the Polish-Austrian-Ukranian menu does not disappoint. Veronika and its sister café Amadeus are serious contenders for cafe/restaurant of the year awards. The former serves astonishing omelettes and sumptuous cakes in a classy candle-lit basement, while the latter oozes class with one of the most eclectic menus in Lviv. Prices for both will not make you feel too much lighter, and neither will the food – but hey, you’re on holiday right? Try ‘The Most Expensive Restaurant in Galicija’ to get a feel for nouveau-riche Ukranians on a night out. This Masonic-themed place feels slightly sinister yet sexy at the same time. Enquiring as to the outlandish prices may land you a ‘tourist’ discount and your bill will magically be 90% cheaper. Don’t ask… Cheese soup and duck pate here recommended. ‘Pidpilya’ in the basement of Cabinet café does the best pirohi (Polish dumplings) in town.

Drop In

The great outdoors

You might have been excused for writing Lviv’s nightlife off as a non-event five or six years ago. Now, it’s all change and you can expect to party to dawn every night of the week if you so choose. Kick off at a cool café like Cabinet early doors, where you can sup a few beers in refined literary surrounds and even shoot a game of pool. Have a perv in Masoch Café, which is dedicated to writer and kinky fantasist Leopold von Masoch, who penned Venus in Furs. Born here but raised in Austria, he would have been impressed by the attention to detail here, including high heels and handcuffs adorning the wall, and a positively pornographic menu. Head to the Armenian quarter with its lively atmosphere and check out Gasova Lyampa, where you bizarrely walk down a flight of stairs only to ascend another and then admire the industrial décor, busts and pictures in homage to Ignacy Lukasiewicz, founder of the Polish oil industry and inventor of the Kerosene lamp. Move on to Kyrivka, underneath ‘The Most Expensive Restaurant…’ where you have to utter a password to a uniformed guard through a peephole on entry: “Slava Ukraini” (“Glory to the Ukraine”) before being offered a tumbler of something strong as a gift. Downstairs discover a chaotic but jovial bunker full of good-natured banter – Lviv’s youth enjoying plentiful cheap beer served by pretty girls in army uniform. Themed (like many new places in Lviv), Kyrivka pays homage to soldiers of the Ukranian Insurgant Army (UPA) who waged guerilla war against the Nazis, Poles and Soviet Union from 1943-49. If you are still compos mentis on leaving, you might want to head to a club like Metro with its progressive, cutting edge dance music, beer and girls on tap.

Getting There

Getting to Lviv, it has to be said, is the one downside. The city does have an airport, but it’s not what you would call well-connected – and not at all to budget carriers, barring one Wizz Air connection to Kiev. Some intrepid souls fly to Rzeszow in Poland and train or bus the rest. Direct train connections from Krakow and Kiev are approximately ten and eight hours respectively. Just think: this is why this place is still so cool.

More Juice

The trusty Lonely Planet guide to Ukraine is handy for Lviv, as is the always reliable In Your Pocket. In addition, there is Lviv Today which is good for cultural events and what’s on. Practical dual-language Ukrainian/English maps are available at www.vidviday.co.ua.

Hard Copy

Ukraine has an enviable literary reputation. Giants like Gogol and Bulgakhov hail from Odessa and Kiev respectively, and a copy of Dead Souls or Master and Margarita will impress the locals. For a more modern perspective on Ukraine, reach for A Short History of Ukrainian Tractors by Marina Lewycka which whimsically documents the problem of Ukranian husband-hunting in the west and also the magnificent Everything is Illuminated by Jonathan Safran Foer. Tackling the murky issue of Jewish shtetls (villages) in western Ukraine and their annihilation under the Nazis with sensitivity and humour in spades, this is a truly illuminating read to accompany you in Lviv.

Soundtrack to the City

Gogol Bordello – Start Wearing Purple
Varenychky – Ukrainia
Burdon – The Ternopil Waltz
Milla Jovovic – Mezinka
The Beatles – Back in the USSR

Bookmark it on Facebook, Twitter etc

Hide Sites

Prague is often dubbed “the city of 100 spires”. Whilst we don’t recommend taking the trouble to count them, what you and every first-time visitor will see – no effort required – is the the city’s architectural splendour. Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque churches, town halls and towers clamour for the attention of your camera lens in the picture perfect Old Town, whilst, silently surveying the entire of Prague, the city castle sits across the Vltava on its lofty hill.

Overlooking the Old Town

Following generations of foreign domination, Nazi occupation and Communist rule, perhaps it’s no surprise that – after the Iron Curtain finally cracked in the early 1990s – Prague was the first of the Central and East European countries to successfully embrace the West and the sparkling allure of the free market. And whilst coach parties, drunk Brits, tacky tourist shops and M&S became an unfortunate side affect of the city’s new Westernised identity, overall Prague has stubbornly maintained its character. Interspersed with the city’s more commercial side you’ll still find numerous antique shops, vintage boutiques and shops selling the famous Bohemian glass, whilst sales of vepřo-knedlo-zelo (pork and dumplings) and delicious honey cake still outnumber sales of Big Macs.

The city’s astonishing prettiness can make Prague resemble a toy town at times, but you don’t have to travel far off the track to experience local life in the living. For example in Letna Park skaters practice tricks, racing and shouting at each other, without a care in the world. This was the very spot where once stood a fearsome statue of Stalin, but now weeds have made their home and what remains of the base is obscured by tangles of grass and graffiti.

Best of the Beaten Track

Whether you visit Old Town Square at dawn, dusk or any hour in between, you can’t fail to be impressed by its pristine beauty. Some come to see the famed Astronomical Clock, others the Jan Hus Memorial and many Týn Cathedral with its iconic towers. Few go home disappointed.

Better by moonlight!

Nearby Charles Bridge also deserves the hype surrounding it, but avoid visiting it in the day when crowds of excitable tourists make it difficult to see the statues that line the North and South sides – or to move. Instead visit on a cloudless night, when the crowds have dispersed and the moonlight illuminates the bridge and casts an eerie light over these noble effigies. At this hour you can touch the statue of the martyred St. John of Nepomuk to ensure you return to Prague, and take a look at the Czech capital while it’s semi-sleepy.

From the Charles Bridge it’s a seemingly vertical stroll to the castle, through Malá Strana and up a lot of steps. But it’s definitely worth sweating for. You can get a panoramic view of the city from above, before exploring this Gothic heavyweight and the nearby cathedral. Also on the top of the hill there’s a an entertaining Toy Museum (the second largest in the world) which includes an army of Barbies from 1959 onwards.

Whilst in Prague you can’t ignore the elephant in the room: the Museum of Communism is located on Na Příkopě 10, just off Wenceslas Square, above McDonald’s and close to a casino, which wouldn’t please Lenin. Today communism in the Czech capital seems as popular amongst residents as the Soviet tanks that enforced it, yet the guest book reveals that the museum attracts both critics and sympathisers of the regime.

Hipster’s Guide

Pop star lives on in Prague

The John Lennon Peace Wall is a bit of a mission to find in the winding streets of Malá Strana, but you’ll be glad of the effort when you get there, if only for the photo opportunity. It became an artistic canvas to commemorate the late Beatle, and was later scrawled on as a sign of protest against the communist regime in the 1980s. It has carried messages of peace ever since, and has been visited by Lennon’s leading lady, Yoko Ono. Don’t forget to take a pen. And a camera.

If you want to escape the city – and have a fascination with all that is morbid – take a trip to the Sedlec Ossuary in Kutna Hora. If you think churches tend to be dull, this one will certainly change your mind. Unlike the average parish prayer house, the shrine is decorated with the bones of the dead from the Hussite Wars and plague victims. The centrepiece is a huge chandelier made from every bone in the human body several times over.

Experiences and events

I don't drink. I'm a tee-toddler

Prague has loads of activities on offer during the summer and, unlike many UK festivals, you won’t be plagued by wind, rain and mud. There’s the Prague Fringe Festival, which imitates its Edinburgh sister in June, and the Czech Beer Festival (one of Urban Travel Blog’s top festivals for 2010!) and Dance Prague in May. If you get your kicks from the silver screen, head to the city in January when the Prague Short Film Festival is on. You can even apply to enter your own. If you’re more interested in putting pen to paper, go in early June for the twentieth Prague Writers’ Festival. There’s also the Prague Food Festival, if you’re voyaging for victuals.

The more active might prefer to try their hand at Aquazorbing at the Aquapalace. It involves rolling around a swimming pool in a giant ball, which will make a good pub story when you get back home. The freezing winters also make skiing an potential activity. Head to the Jizerské Hory range, an hour’s drive from Prague, when the snow settles.

Pillow Talk

Many tourists come to Prague for the women

If you want your holiday with a side helping of servants, try The Golden Well Hotel, where you can have your luggage unpacked and your aromatic oil bath run for you, as well as an in-room massage. Guests also have access to Holy Roman Emperor Rudolf II’s private entrance into the castle gardens. If only home was this good! If your love of history extends to the boudoir, try the Sax Hotel. The 14th century building has rooms decorated in fifties, sixties and seventies themes. Choose your favourite decade and step in! For a more wallet friendly stay head to Hotel Clementin, which is noticeable for being housed in Prague’s narrowest building. For a high class hostel try Miss Sophie’s with its designer dorms. It’s chic but still cheap.

Fork out

Czech food is a tempting mix of the meaty and the carb-laden, but not very vegetarian friendly! For authentic Czech fare head to Botel Admiral, an old boat moored on the banks of the Vltava. Try the delicious old-Bohemian-style roast goose. It’s a guaranteed foodgasm, as is the fare at U Pinkasů. Established in 1843, it was the first place to serve Pilsner, and still prides itself on its wide range of brews. And don’t miss the Czech honey cake. Vegetarians may find it more of a mission to find good food in Prague, but definitely not impossible. Maitrea is a vegetarian joint lovingly designed with feng shui principles in mind. The restaurant, with its soothing fountains and cream decor, envelops you in a sense of calm. And importantly the food will leave you wanting a second portion, too.

Drop in

Just an ordinary night at Cross Club...

When darkness falls Prague becomes a more flamboyant, hedonistic version of its daytime self, particularly in New Town and Old Town. For pre-drinks try Harley’s Bar. It’s as garish as a neon light in a library, but the atmosphere is always buzzing and the happy (three) hours are cheap. Cocktail freaks should hit Bugsy’s Bar, where 200 varieties are on offer, including the Long Breakfast Belevedere, intriguingly mixed with marmalade. While you’re here take a look at the paraphernalia on display – there’s a 1795 bottle of Madeira roasted wine, a Morris Hennessy signed bottle and the world’s tiniest mixer set. For something a bit twisted try the Cross Club, which is filled with works by local artists, strange inventions and kaleidoscopic lighting. It’ll make you feel like you’re tripping before you even are. The locals and students milling around also make it feel more authentic than other clubs.

Getting There

You can fly cheaply to Prague with low cost airlines easyJet, Jet2 and Ryanair, from a variety of UK and Irish cities, such as London, Edinburgh and Dublin. If money’s more plentiful you can choose from British Airways, Czech Airlines, or KLM. From continental Europe you can travel cheaply by bus or train, with the overnighter to Krakow a staple on the backpacker route.

More Juice

The Czech Tourism website which offers a comprehensive – albeit sanitised – guide to Prague. For the unofficial stamp of approval take a look at Empty Nest Expat, an expat American’s blog on life in the Czech capital. For hip tips and local secrets look no further than Spotted by Locals Prague blog.

Hard Copy

Before you go, dip into The Visible World by Mark Slouka, which reawakens wartime Czechslovakia and the Nazi occupation. For a guide of what to see and do in Prague pick up a copy of Artel Style by Karen Feldman, a visual treat written by an expat who made her home in the city. It’s full of tips on where to play, eat, and sleep, as well as including more useful information, such as common Czech phrases, metro and tram maps. Of course no serious Bohemian heading to the homeland would forget to pack a little light reading by Kafka or Kundera.

Soundtrack to the City

Druha Trava – Ja Pisnicka
Forgotten Silence – The Sunflames
Khoiba – Not As It Seems
Ticha Dohoda – Vitr
Wohnout – Ganga

Bookmark it on Facebook, Twitter etc

Hide Sites