Chariots are out... bikes are in

3,400 years of culture is undoubtedly a good reason for visiting, especially as many of the most spectacular temples of the classical era are still standing, such as the resplendent Parthenon (…just waiting for the British Museum to give back those Marbles!). However there’s much more to Athens than Doric-columned delights: today’s shining temples come in the form of stadia left over from the 2004 Olympics Games, such as the Spiros Louis Stadium with its roof by Santiago Calatrava. If you’re non-plussed by architecture however there’s the Greek cuisine and nightlife to indulge in and plenty of pleasant parks to ramble in. For many of course Athens is also the gateway to the diverse and beautiful archipelagoes that constitute the Greek islands.

Best of the Beaten Track

Once you’re in Athens, you can’t escape it… there are pieces of history almost everywhere. From the famous Temple of Hephaestus in the central district of Thission to the archeological finds inside some of the city’s busiest metro stations. The best way to enjoy most of the city’s sites is by foot. Forget the hop on-hop off city tour buses, grab a city map and head to Syntagma square. From there you can visit the National Garden (where famously King Alexander I was bit by a monkey, and subsequently died of Sepsis) and the Zappeion next to the Parliament. After you can either walk down the Ermou Street straight to Monastiraki with the Ancient Agora and Thission, or choose to turn left and get lost in one of the most beautiful areas of Athens, Plaka. Whichever one you choose, there will be plenty to see.

Patching up the Parthenon

Some of the sights you’ll pass are the Theatre of Herodes Atticus, under the rock of Acropolis, the Stoa of Attalos, the Temple of Olympian Zeus, the new Acropolis Museum and the Roman Agora. Of course, you simply cannot ignore the Acropolis and its most recognised monument, the Parthenon.

If you still have energy left after that, or you’re up for another walk the following day, there are plenty of places left to visit, such as Lycabettus Hill with its entrance on the corner of Ploutarchou and Aristippou streets, or a stroll in the rather chichi district of Kolonaki.

Hipster’s Guide

My first suggestion would be the Pedion tou Areos, a big park perfect for an evening walk. For those that prefer a fresh sea breeze, you can take the tram until the Batis station and head right to Faliro and the Flisvos marina.

...not to be confused with the Techno Police

The areas of Metaxourgeio and Kerameikos boast a number of art galleries such as the Municipal Gallery of Athens, with 3000 paintings by 19th and 20th century Greek artists, and both the Athens House of Photography and Technopolis, a former gasworks turned mixed use cultural centre, which host rotating exhibitions throughout the year.

Tourists usually stay away from the area of Exarchia and it’s not for everyone. I wouldn’t suggest it if you’re travelling with your family. But if you’re not, and you’re willing to look for them, it’s a place with lots of artistic and cheap cafes, bars and shops.

To really get under the skin of the city why not sign up for the Meet A Local scheme… register at least 72 hours before you arrive and get your own free tour guide!

Experience and Events

Something interesting you can experience in Athens is a bike ride with the locals. If you’re up for it, cyclists gather in Thission, traditionally on balmy Friday nights during summer (around 9pm), before setting off on a big ride throughout the city.

Five drachma or I walk

On the weekends, head to Monastiraki. The flea marketon Sunday is lovely and with some digging, you can certainly find something interesting amongst the handmade jewellery, analogue cameras and dusty musical instruments. The key is getting there early though, because the crowd is impossible later on the day.

As you’d expect Athens has a busy events schedule, some more famous to tourists such as the Rock Wave Festival (July), others less so like the Nyxtes Premieras Film Festival (Sept), and some much less. Before visiting, I suggest you browse online to see which events sound interesting to you.

Pillow Talk

Starting on the luxury end of the scale, I can’t not mention the Grande Bretagne, a 5-star place to stay right in the centre of the city, in Syntagma. Next there is the new A for Athens hotel in Monastiraki. It is incredibly close to the metro station and has a roof bar (also visited by non-residents) with a beautiful view of the whole city. If you’re travelling on a budget though, the Central Athens and the Athos Hotels are two very good alternatives. Both with a lovely view, located near the area of Plaka, just minutes away from Syntagma square and the metro station.

Fork Out

The price is academic at Gazi College

Drop In

Athens is famous for its vibrant nightlife and Greeks are known to sleep late… Locals prefer the areas of Gazi, Psirri and Monastiraki. In Psirri and Monastiraki you can find bars small or large playing from ethnic and rock to jazz and pop. There are also some gig spaces you can visit. Six dogs and Bios are probably the most well-known. You realise Gazi has a huge diversity of bars almost the second you leave the metro station: there are a loads of drinking dens and clubs in every street around Gazi square to satisfy every taste. A great starting point for a bar crawl is Socialista in Triptolemou street.

Getting There

Athens International airport Eleftherioz Venizelos is serviced by all major airlines. The best-known greek ones are Olympic and Aegean airlines. Easyjet are one of the cheapest to fly to Greece and they go from London, Manchester and Edinburgh in the UK, plus from Berlin, Paris and Rome.

More Juice

Many websites can keep you up to date with Athens’ nightlife and everyday events but most don’t have an English language site as well. Breathtakingathens however is a site where you can read some of the city’s news. Matt Barrett’s Athens Survival Guide is a highly detailed resource for tourists, and those folks at In Your Pocket are online too. Pictures paint a thousand words (as we know) and you may want to whet your appetite for Athens by checking out this huge photostream of the city, uploaded by locals on a daily basis.

Hard Copy

Lonely Planet, Rough Guide and Time Out have all decent city guides for Athens (the latter being the best). Also, free press magazines of the city such as LIFO and Athens Voice can be found around Syntagma in stands inside and out of coffee houses, and include things to do, places to go and events. Literature-wise, Homer‘s Iliad may not be a page turner in the modern sense, but the account of Achilles’ argument with Agamemnon at the tail-end of the Trojan War is packed with juicy battles and noble deeds. Meanwhile Thucydides‘ History of the Peloponnesian War is considered the first serious history book (ie. no flying snakes as with Herodotus) and you won’t get a better insight into classical Greece than this work by an Athenian general. For something more modern John Fowles’ cult classic The Magus is a must, especially if you’re heading on to the islands.

Soundtrack to the City

Pulp – Common People
Better than Ezra – Road trip to Athens
Pat McGee – Girl from Athens
Young Statues – Athens
Blur – Boys and Girls
Helena Paparizou – Mambo

The king o’ drinks as I conceive it,
Talisker, Isla or Glenlivet
Robert Louis Stevenson, The Scotsman’s Return from Abroad, 1880

So wrote the famed Scottish novelist upon his return from living in America, where apparently he had a rough go feeling at home and absolutely could not stand the taste of Bourbon and longed for the strong stuff of his native Scotland. Whether you’re a fan of Stateside whiskey or not you certainly can’t blame Mr. Stevenson for feeling down in the dumps about living without access to his beloved Scotch.

Treasure Scotland

Located within the terribly touristic (if still incredibly scenic and evocative) Royal Mile is The Scotch Whisky Experience, offering a “sensational journey” taking folks through the “magical craft” of whisky making. Mere steps from the entrance to Edinburgh Castle and amidst too many souvenir shops, a gauntlet of street performers and a dense concentration of hotels and restaurants, a bit of inevitable cheese accompanies the experience.

Good ole Robert Louis may very well have been appalled. But for those uninitiated to the world of Scotch, a visit to Edinburgh’s Scotch Whisky Experience offers a thorough and well rounded introduction to Scotland’s most famous export along with plenty of tips for making the most of any wee dram.

Take a glass, any glass...

And of course afterwards the barrel riders are rewarded for their endurance with some actual whisky. A tasting session taking you through the characteristics of single malts from the different whisky producing regions of Scotland is conducted, followed by another tasting of your preferred Scotch based upon what you liked best in the tasting. Judging from Mr Stevenson’s quote above, he’d have been one for the smokier, more peaty stuff. But for those wanting something more mellow, floral or light, there’s a Scotch for you too. The tour’s final quaff takes place in the Diageo Claive Vidiz Scotch Whisky Collection room where the world’s largest collection of bottled whiskies (more than 3000) are on gorgeous display and frankly worth a visit alone.

Tasty line up

The Experience’s touristy setting means the Scotch Whisky Experience couldn’t be more convenient or easier to find. Booking your tour ahead of time is advisable but walk-ins are welcome. A post-castle visit or pre-dinner tipple (some of Edinburgh’s most renowned restaurants are well within walking distance) might be the best times to check out this attraction. There’s a well stocked shop (10% discounts with your tour ticket), an informative staff, a cafe and restaurant are all on site. And if the kitsch factor proves to be just too much for your liking, maybe you can just settle in back at one of Edinburgh’s cosy bars for a nightcap or two. And should anyone in your company make the mistake of ordering Malibu, you can always invoke Stevenson once more:

I have only one thing to say to you, sir … if you keep on drinking rum, the world will soon be quit of a very dirty scoundrel!
RLS, Treasure Island.

Chris Osburn was a guest at the Scotch Whisky Experience. More info here: www.scotchwhiskyexperience.co.uk

Edinburgh’s Whisky Bars

WHISKI Bar & Restaurant
With 300 distillations to imbibe, and nearly as many awards for their services to the world of whisky, this place is your numero uno point of call for a spot of sampling. Those that refuse to get into the spirit of things can order Scottish craft beers or from the modern gastro menu.
119 High Street, The Royal Mile
www.whiskibar.co.uk

Albanach Edinburgh
A typical Scottish pub (check out those Tartan walls), the Albanach stocks over 100 varieties of whisky ranging from 3-30 quid for a nip. The knowledgeable staff are up for a chinwag and will help you make a selection. Fill up on mashed potatoe with whisky sauce!
197 High Street, Royal Mile

The Bow Bar
A great little bar that benefits from being off the Royal Mile, tucked away on West Bow street. 200 varieties of the good stuff, including not just the big brands but independent bottlers and single cask Scotch.
80 West Bow

For more bar options check out this website, and this one!

Whisky Distilleries in/around Edinburgh

Glenkinchie Distillery
Most of Scotland’s most famous distilleries are up in the highlands, making Glenkinchie, in East Lothian, the best option for most day trippers from Edinburgh. For 6 GBP you can tour the beautiful red-brick premises and then retire to the bar for a taste of this single malt, with a warm finish and a smoky spiciness. You can take the 44b ‘First bus’ to Pencaitland from Edinburgh city centre, then navigate a two mile walk – or take a taxi. Or alternatively taxi it all the way, as it’s just 19 miles away from Edinburgh. Call 01875 342012 for more info.

For more options check out Scotland Whiskey’s list of distilleries or Diageo’s Discovering Distilleries website.

Anyway, now the hangover has faded, and my friend seems to have forgotten about that broken radiator which I can’t afford to replace, it’s time to think about 2012 and which great destinations we’re going to explore. If you normally do this by spinning the globe and pointing (damn, middle of Pacific Ocean… again!) then why not try a more practical approach and take some inspiration from our team of Urban Travel Bloggers… starting with Sasha Arms.

“I’m really looking forward to going to Bulgaria for the first time this year. I’ve heard the country is becoming a real contender in terms of food, wine, skiing and spas – and I intend to give each of them a go to see if the rumours are true. Sofia is also putting itself firmly in the running for being the Capital of Culture in 2019 and I can’t wait to see how the city is transforming itself in preparation.”

Richord Tulloch meanwhile plans to head stateside, for good reason: “For the first time in over a decade I’ll be visiting New York. I’m looking forward to doing some alternative UTB reporting and seeing some shows, most notably a play I wrote myself. The Book of Everything, New Victory Theatre, 42nd St, New York, opening April 19th. Catch it if you can!” Naturally we wouldn’t let him leave Australia without some more adventures, and keep your eyes peeled for a two wheel tour of Melbourne coming to UTB soon.

Photojournalist Anna Spysz is a girl on a mission. “My big travel plan for 2012 is stepping foot on the South American continent by my 30th birthday in October, as one of my life goals is to visit all of the continents except Antarctica by age 30, and that’s the last one left on the list. Luckily one of my good friends just bought a house in rural Ecuador, so it must be a sign!” She also tells me she is contemplating a 10 day trip in a cargo ship across the Atlantic… so good luck Anna!

Pola Henderson, despite being recently introduced to the charms of London’s Crystal Palace by the UTB Editor, is planning her next trip closer to her native Chicago. “For me the destination is Guadalajara, Mexico. If not for its historic buildings, then definitely for ‘tortas ahogadas’ – sandwiches drowned in spicy sauce, a local specialty.” You can follow Pola on Twitter or her own blog, Jetting Around.

As for me, top of the hitlist for 2012 has to be Kiev. Not only is the Ukrainian Capital set to play a major role in the Euro 2012 Football tournament, but with its parks and river beaches is a great place to crack open a can of kvas and enjoy the summer sunshine. From there it’s not too far to get to the Kazantip dance music festival in Crimea.

Got a better idea? Please share it with us! Meanwhile wherever you’re travelling in 2012 you might want to check out City Guides before you go. We’ve got a collection of 25 or so of these insider guides, with the latest being to Havana, Cuba (another great option for 2012 if you want to see it before it changes completely!).

So it sounds like the UTB team will be having plenty of fun this year… and you’ll be able to read about (most of) it right here! Hope you’ll stay tuned in 2012.

The largest city in the Caribbean, with 2.1 million inhabitants, it’s no exaggeration to say Cuba’s capital makes for a unique visit – but to understand Havana you first have to understand its history. Founded in the 16th century by the Spanish, Havana’s position as ‘Key to the New World’ saw it rapidly grow from a small trading outpost into a flourishing and fashionable city of commerce and leisure. By the 1930s, swelled by American tourists escaping prohibition, it had become the Las Vegas of the Latin world, full of luxury hotels, swinging nightclubs and casinos – and seedy characters. Much of Havana’s legacy today is grounded in those cocktail-fuelled days of hedonistic abandon.

Walking the streets

Whilst the grandeur of Havana’s halcyon days still lingers on in the dilapidated colonial buildings and creaking American muscle cars (now more likely to be powered by Lada engines), today’s Cuba is a direct result of Guavara’s and Castro’s (highly romanticised) 1959 revolution, and their subsequent Communist policies, which restricted foreign trade and isolated the country from the rest of the world.

With Castro finally stepping down from power in 2008, change is in the air, but for now Havana remains in stasis, crippled by the US trade embargo still in place since 1961. That means a severe scarcity of everyday goods/items (don’t come to Cuba for the shopping or the fine-dining…) and a distinct lack of customer service (…a filthy Capitalist invention!), but you will discover a resourceful and romantic spirit refreshingly at odds with an increasingly uniform and globalised world. You might say that Havana is one of the few destinations around that continues to be itself rather than pander to what the traveller wants it to be.

Best of the Beaten Track

The Capitolio Nacional is Havana’s most famous landmark – this grandiose neoclassical building, whose dome reaches 92m off the ground, was based on Washington DC’s Capitol Building. Despite housing the Cuban Academy of Sciences and Technology, you can still head inside for a token fee and take in the ‘Hall of Lost Steps’ and the iconic Republica statue. Around the corner from el Capitolio is one of the most favoured cigar factories in the city: Real Fabrica de Tabacos Partagas. You can do a tour to watch the cigar making process from start to finish, then buy some from the musty, wood-panelled shop. (Note that the vicinity around the factory is a hotspot for scammers trying to sell you knock-off cigars “for a good price”. If a helpful local offers to walk you to the cigar factory, you’re more likely to end up in someone’s house faced with a holdall full of counterfeit Montecristos and Cohibas).

Plaza San Francisco in the sun

Havana is also known for its squares – Plaza Vieja, Plaza San Francisco de Asis, Plaza de Armas, Plaza de la Catedral. They’re all within walking distance of each other and have points of interests worth checking out, from cathedrals to historical monuments. The vast Revolutionary Square is a taxi journey away from the Old Town in the Vedado distict and the current location of the Cuban government. There are various monuments to key revolutionaries here, including a large mural of Che Guevara.

Havana seems to have a museum about absolutely everything and you can’t possibly visit them all. The Revolutionary Museum, however, is a must. Housed in the former Presidential Palace, the interior was decorated by Tiffany’s and the last president to reside here was Batista. The building today could do with some TLC along with the rest of the city, but the walls pock-marked with bullet holes serve as a close reminder of battles from the past. The museum is filled with Revolutionary accessories, blood-stained uniforms and posters and flyers used before and after 1959. Visitors also have access to the plaza outside filled with bullet-riddled vehicles used during the Revolution, including the SAU-100 tank driven by Fidel Castro at the Bay of Pigs. Alongside this is the yacht that carried Castro and more than 80 revolutionaries from Mexico to Cuba in 1956: it’s kept in a glass case and guarded by the military 24 hours a day.

Last but not least, the Malecon is an 8km long stretch of road with the sea on one side and a charming but seriously dilapidated row of buildings on the other. The Malecon is where Cubans go in their leisure time – to simply walk, ponder or meet up with friends or lovers for a chat or a date on the Malecon sea wall. It’s a window into Cuban life at its most simple and beautiful.

Hipster’s Guide

As a city with a museum for all and sundry, there are a couple of quirkier stops to be made. Museo de Naipes on Plaza Vieja is the playing card museum with a collection of 2,000 designs of playing cards. It’s definitely niche, but not as much as the Havana Pharmacy Museum. The miniscule ‘museum’ is set up as a display of an old Cuban pharmacy, which in reality is not much different to the working pharmacy (for Cubans only) that’s still in operation in the same building. Meanwhile the Museo del Automovil is filled with huge old American cars in much better condition than the ones you’ll find negotiating the roads.

Castro's tank

Bookworms and those looking for a slice of Cuban history in the form of the written word must pay a visit to the second hand book market that takes place in Plaza de Armas every day except Sundays. It’s filled with books relating to the revolution, including a number in cartoon form. Arty types might enjoy another speciality opportunity in the city – a class on the art and skill of engraving at the Taller Experimental de Grafica.

Sport fans can also explore Havana’s quirky side. The Gimnasio de Boxeo Rafael Trejo is a boxing gym where visitors can go to watch fights on Friday evenings. It’s certainly one way to get an insight into a side of Cuban life (check out this article in the Independent). There’s also the Estadio Latinoamericano – the city’s baseball stadium that seats almost 60,000 people. Believe it or not, baseball is Cuba’s national sport (Fidel Castro has even been pictured wearing a baseball hat and swinging a bat on the pitch) and this stadium gets packed out for games. While it’s not exactly a sport, the Circo Trompoloco – a circus with a focus on Soviet techniques – is an entertaining night out.

Foodies can have some fun in El Barrio Chino – Havana’s China Town. The irony is of course that there are no Chinese people running any of the restaurants. In the least, the Cuban interpretation of Chinese food makes for a talking point over dinner. Locals rate the ‘Three Chinese’ as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Havana. For afters, a visit to El Gato Tuerto – ‘the one eyed cat’ – is apt to finish up an alternative evening in the city. Found in a house off the Malecon, the property has turtles in the swimming pool out front, while the ground floor is a nightclub. Have a sneaky peak at the locals taking it in turns to sing renditions of Latin ballads by the karaoke machine, or join in if you’ve drunk enough mojitos.

Experience and Events

Havana’s annual events calendar kicks off from 1st January when Cubans not only celebrate the New Year but the triumph of the Revolution and a party atmosphere prevails on the streets. The Festival Internacional de Jazz happens every February and consistently draws in a number of big names. The Hemingway International Marlin Fishing Tournament was set up by Ernest Hemingway himself in 1951, and gained further notoriety when Fidel Castro won in 1960. August is when both the Havana Carnival and the Havana Hip Hop Carnival take place. The former involves music, parades and dancing along the Malecon (think the Notting Hill Carnival with more rhythm and less police presence), while the Hip Hop Carnival sees some of the country’s many young dancers performing. The Havana ‘Marabana’ marathon attracts up to 3,000 runners each year, and the year culminates in the internationally famous Festival del Nuevo Cine Latino-Americano – the Latin American Film Festival.

Poster at the Revolutionary Museum

For those who want to get an idea of some of Havana’s local creativity and life first hand, a stroll through the Old Town will reveal art gallery upon art gallery, so stop at any that take your fancy (if they’re open). The Fototeca de Cuba art gallery on Plaza Vieja is a photo gallery for local and international artists and the photo archive for the City Historian’s Office; it’s well worth a visit.

If you get the dancing bug while in Havana, and it’s hard not to, there are a number of dance classes on offer across the city. The Conjunto Folklorico Nacional de Cuba is a good option, with all kinds of classes suitable for different levels. Lastly, the travel agency San Cristobal Agencia de Viajes can do a tour of social projects going on in the city for those who want to get a firmer handle on how the city ticks.

Pillow Talk

Hotel Nacional, an art deco hotel built in 1930, is famous for being the site of shoot-outs between troops during several of Cuba’s changes of governments. The hotel also unwittingly hosted the largest ever get-together of the North American Mafia in 1946, who said they were there for a Frank Sinatra concert. It was once home to one of the most famous casinos in Cuba (gambling is now banned in Cuba), but still has a worthwhile cabaret and an intriguing selection of photos of past guests on the wall. Also at the high end Hotel Inglaterra is an old classic of a hotel, dating back to 1856. It was Jose Marti’s favourite hotel and El Louvre, the hotel’s al fresco rooftop bar, makes for a great pit stop even if you don’t stay the night. Hotel Habana Libre (formerly the Hilton) is worth a mention as Fidel Castro resided in a comfortable suite on the 24th floor for a few months following the success of the Revolution. It must certainly have beaten Cuba’s jungle and inhospitable mountains. Over in Miramar you’ll find the Hotel Melia Habana

If you don’t have cash to flash, there are plenty of budget and medium range accommodation options in central Havana. Residencia Academica Convento de Santa Clara is one of the few hostel accommodation types in the city and is housed in an old convent. It’s basic but serves a purpose. Most low priced accommodation options come in the form of casas and people renting out rooms. Just one example is Juan y Margarita (casas are often simply called the name of the owners) on Obispo. They rent out a two bedroom apartment with a sitting room and a balcony that helps you get a feeling for Cuban life going on below.

Fork Out

A Cuban spread

The restaurant that locals unanimously agree is the best place in town is Los Nardos. It’s a drab-looking, semi-private restaurant where you often have to queue, but seems to be worth it. It serves up Cuban food and seafood such as lobster for cheap prices. For fine dining (which is hard to truly find in Cuba), your best option is La Torre, found on the top floor of the modernist structure of Edificio Focsa. It has a French focus and impeccable service (also hard to find in Cuba), although prices are expensive even by European standards. La Imprenta on Mercaderes is more of a realistic, middle of the row option, located in an old printing works. Café Lamparillanearby is totally buzzing with pavement seating and serves cheap, satisfying food. Over in the suburb of Miramar, Paladar Mi Jardin is found in the tranquil setting of a family garden and the Mexican food on offer is really tasty.

Drop In

Founded by George Michael

As the ultimate city of music, every bar, restaurant or café you sit in will have a local band playing. That’s just Havana for you. With some renowned cabarets peppered in for good measure, every night is a night out in Havana. First stop has to be La Floridita, an old American hangout and widely known as being Ernest Hemingway’s favourite drinking spot. Prices reflect this institution’s claim to fame, but you still need to try it for the kudos. Make it a Papa Hemingway Special, which is basically a daiquiri made with
grapefruit juice. A few doors down is Monserrate Bar, replete with saloon-style doors and a great selection of bands. The prices are more reasonable and the place gets more and more vibrant as the day goes on. Bar dos Hermanos is on the way from the old town towards the docks and is another lively option; this one was the poet Lorca’s favourite. Jazz fans will get their fix from the JazzCafé on the top floor of the Galerias de Paseo nightclub, which overlooks the Malecon. Those who want more of a nightclub atmosphere should head over to La Casa de la Musica in Central Havana or in Miramar. It’s one of the most popular venues for live music in Havana and regularly has top live salsa bands. There are lots of cabaret options in Havana, but you might as well go to the most famous one. Club Tropicana, of course. The outdoor cabaret is a spectacle of scantily clad and exceptionally talented performers and you won’t regret going – Tropicana is one of the few places in the world that lives up to its name. Men are handed a cigar on entry and tickets also include a quarter of a bottle of the famous Havana Club rum and a glass of something sparkly per person.

Getting There

Virgin Atlantic flies from London Gatwick to Havana twice a week and from other cities across Europe at a similar frequency. Cubana Airlines also runs a number of international and domestic services. Package deals with specialist travel agencies such as The Holiday Place can offer more wallet friendly packages that include both accommodation and flights, but do your research on the hotels they offer before you go.

More Juice

Information on Cuba in general is hard to come by, both online and in print, and you should go knowing that you will have to work out a lot for yourself when you get there. Lonely Planet, Frommers and Virtual Tourist have some decent tips, as does this Insider’s Guide in the Guardian.

Hard Copy

Speaking about guide books, the sixth edition of the Lonely Planet to
Cuba (published in October 2011) helps get you started and there’s an extensive section on Havana, including some handy maps. For some fiction pack Graham Greene’s lauded Our Man in Havana.

Silver Screen

Apart from a film version of Our Man in Havana, take your pick from Revolutionary films such as Cuba with Sean Connery, Havana starring Robert Redford, or more recently Che with Benicio del Toro. For something more concerned with the plight of Habaneros today, try the Spanish/Cuban effort Habana Blues.

Today Morocco’s most famous Medina offers a curious glimpse of ancient customs sitting beside modern technologies and lifestyles. Thought to be the largest car-free urban zone in the world, in Fes al Bali (as it is known), you’ll not only see donkeys put to labour, leather tanners working in souks, and wizened locals rolling hashish cigarettes and drinking black coffee at the outdoor cafes, but you’ll also find Internet cafes full of Facebook-addicted users, modern-designed hookah bars selling avocado smoothies to well-dressed youngsters, and adverts for Coke Zero.

The heart and soul of the Fez Medina are the traditional riads (or ‘riyads’), town houses that open up into expansive inner worlds, often with luminous courtyards and gardens with orange trees. If you’re lucky enough to stay in one such place, you can get a real insight into every day Moroccan life, as Anna Spysz discovered:

“I learned upon arrival that a family flat meant 10 people in one apartment, including my host’s mother, brother, aunts, uncle and cousins. As cramped as that might sound by Western standards, they still had plenty of room to host not only me, but also a couchsurfing couple from the Czech Republic. The salon was the heart and centre of the home, where the family spent almost all of their time together, whether it was doing homework on a laptop, preparing vegetables for dinner, praying several times a day, eating together or just hanging out and chatting.”

Below Anna captures some of the colours and sights of Fes’ Medina.