“You ride only in Saigon, or you take motorbike outside Saigon?”

“No, no. Only in Saigon.”

Heavy traffic

The odometer on my bike was broken, so even if they knew the mileage, there’s no way they’d know how far we took them. So the next morning we were on the highway, starting a nearly 200km ride to Can Tho, the largest city in the Mekong delta region of Southern Vietnam. I figured as long as we got the bikes back in one piece, all would be well. The squadron included myself and German Julia on my bike, American Franklin and Swiss Sascha on two other bikes. We’d heard great things about the Mekong delta and its “floating markets” but hadn’t had much time to do too much research – that was part of the adventure.

A couple hours outside of Ho Chi Minh City we stopped for a water break – I got salty lemonade which turns out to be delicious – and we were approached by a fellow foreign motor biker. He asked if we had sunscreen, which in lonesome traveler speak translates to: “Hey do you guys want to be friends?” Yes, we did have sun screen, but no, we didn’t want to be friends. So we robbed him and left.

Another day of buoyant trading in the Mekong

Just kidding… and then there were five. Canadian Ryan was now part of the unit and we rode into the wind, just like that, +1 brave soldier.

Being out On The Road in Vietnam was a blast – it was significantly less stressful than the heavy traffic of the city, and the countryside has some beautiful stretches. The road-side restaurants along the way had very limited menus but made up for it with the dozens of hammocks, turning short pit-stops into slightly longer than expected nap-time. It just makes so much sense! I really want to introduce the hammock-restaurant to stretches of American highways (patent pending).

After getting lost several times, we eventually made it to Can Tho just after dark, and managed to find a hotel with essentially no idea where we were or where we were going. After having dinner at a little restaurant called “Mekong,” which was delicious and cheap, we ran into a woman who convinced us to get a boat to the floating market at 5:30am. I don’t think I’ve been up before 8 am in five years. How she convinced me to agree to that is something that should be studied by business negotiators at Fortune 500 companies. She convinced us that you have to get down the river to the market bright and early to catch the action.

(Taking it) easy rider

It ended up being a great decision; the city was dark and quiet as we walked to the water, and the little motorboat ride down the river at sunrise was peaceful and gorgeous. To be honest I didn’t know much of what to expect at a floating market, but I assumed some sort of hover-craft would be involved. Suddenly we were amidst small- to medium-sized vessels, bobbing about each other, linking up to transfer cargo between them. Our guide/driver cut off the engine and rowed us between the boats, some selling watermelons and pineapples, others offering all kinds of fresh seafood. It seemed to be primarily larger commodity wholesale, but the vendors were happy to unload individual items to us as well. I grabbed some pastries from a baked goods boat, while Canadian Ryan flagged down the watermelon cruise liner. We also linked up with a coffee vendor who managed to transfer a few cups of steaming coffee to us while bobbing back and forth alongside our boat (without spilling a drop). Surprisingly we only saw one or two other boats with tourists in them. It seems to be one of those tourist spots that is well known enough to be easily accessible, but also out of the way enough so that it’s never overrun at any particular time.

Mission accomplished. Over and out.

The next day we managed to get back to Ho Chi Minh City with slightly less delay, but just as many hammock naps. The roads were slightly harrowing, dodging between trucks and other motor bikes, but our faithful steeds carried us back unscathed (the one and only casualty was Sascha’s rearview mirror, which had been fastened on with a rubber band). The lesson learned here is that if anyone tells you to get on a bus tour from HCMC to Mekong delta tell them you once heard a tale of a few road warriors who bucked the system and took matters into their own hands.

Nice one Vince, but if like the Editor, you a) can’t drive and b) think motorbikes are heavy horsepower deathtraps you might prefer to check out Tucan Travel’s more conventional Mekong Delta tours. They leave and return from Ho Chi Minh City and offer a real insight into local life as you visit a myriad of small businesses like floating market stalls, a rice paper and sweet making place, a ceramics factory and a bonsai garden where you can hold a giant snake, taste local fruits and drink tea – or snake wine. You will also ‘enjoy’ an authentic homestay (ie. back to basics!) and an early morning cruise on a sampan boat.

Meanwhile, sticking with Urban Travel Blog, do stay tuned for more of Vince’s adventures as his journey takes him to Kuala Lumpur and Singapore next…

*Security: Following the revolution in 2011, Cairo has gone through rapid and serious changes. Cairo, once an astoundingly safe city, has seen recent spikes in crime, including harassment and sexual assault. Before going, be sure to check travel advisories for your embassy and read local English language newspapers.

*Dress Code: Both women and men can somewhat avoid unwanted attention by not wearing shorts, skirts above the knee, or shirts without sleeves. If it is hot, a woman can bring a light scarf to cover the shoulders of her sleeveless top. A scarf is also useful for women when trying to get into well-known mosques for free or otherwise.

The Arab Spring isn’t over yet in Egypt. The events of January 25^th, 2011 and after have brought to the surface deep unresolved issues regarding the identity of the nation. These events are still unfolding in Tahrir Square and elsewhere in the city. Scattered protests and bouts of violence still occur, and the situation is constantly evolving in new and sometimes unexpected ways.

The edge of Tahrir Square with a view of the burned NDP Building and the pink Egyptian Museum

The battling worlds of Egypt can be seen the most clearly in Cairo, from the posh malls and clubs frequented by foreigners and the very richest Egyptians, to the Muslim Brotherhood member with his wife wearing  ‘niqab.’ Yet the essence of Cairo is still sitting in the ‘baladee’ (my country) café in the street, smoking a shisha and drinking a tea with fresh mint or a good black coffee late into the evening.

Despite, or maybe because of, everything that has happened, most Egyptians are still eager to exercise tolerance for religion, welcoming outsiders with panache that one suspects is as old as the pharaohs. With the pyramids in an outlying suburb, Cairo is the ultimate place to experience the clash of old and new, of radical change coupled with die-hard traditions. It is an intense assault on the senses and the brain.

You will either be addicted to Cairo or never return. There is no in between.

Best of the Beaten Track

Cairo has so many layers of important history, it will be difficult to hit even these main points in just one weekend. Generally, sites can be broken down into Pharonic, Coptic Christian, Islamic, colonial, or modern periods.

The Pyramids of Giza are obscuring a Kentucky Fried Chicken from this angle.

Cairo is world famous for its traffic, so if you take a taxi, be prepared. Make sure you hail a white cab with a working meter. Also, make sure the taximan explicitly turns the meter on, and make sure it begins at 2.50 EGP. A non-working meter is a sign of a scam, and check current information from your embassy regarding taking taxis at night.

The metro will take you near many places of interest to travelers. It costs 1 EGP. Maps are posted in the interior, but they are out of date, meaning that the names of a few of the stations have changed; notably the Mubarak station has become Al Shohadaa (the Martyrs). It is best to download a map and then ask metro workers for assistance.

Sites to see include the Pyramids (though beware of touts), and the Sakkara Pyramids (you must have a car or taxi to and from this destination) also check out the Mastabas beside it. With its collection of antiquities, a traveler needs to see the Egyptian Museum. However, you should check the situation in Tahrir first, as it is located just beside the square.

Coptic Cairo can be reached easily by getting out at the Mar Girgis metro station, including the Hanging Church and the Coptic Museum. Islamic Cairo includes the Citadel, Khan el Khalili Souq with El Fishawy’s Café and the Islamic Art Museum.

Hipster’s Guide

Probably, the coolest neighborhood to get lost in is Garden City. Legend has it that its impossibly winding streets were made that way to confuse the British during Egypt’s resistance to colonialism; Wikipedia claims otherwise. Now it’s home to many embassies, juxtaposed by barbed wire and even tanks.

The home of an Egyptian revolutionary frozen in time

Across the way, outside the Saad Zaghoul metro station, you will find a house that belonged to the station’s name sake, a central leader in the struggle against colonialism. Two more sights worth seeing are the home and museum of Om Khalthoum, a singer who retains cult following status among many Egyptians, and the Nilometer, the structure used for measuring the undulations of the great river. Both of these sites are on the same site at the southernmost tip of Manial Island.

At the heart of grassroots liberalism in Egypt and a hotspot of the revolution is Townhouse Gallery. For rare book enthusiasts, check out Dar el Kotb (house of books) downtown; it’s free and houses one of the oldest Korans ever written.

Experience & Events

If the Arab Spring was a Facebook revolution, then Cairo is a Facebook city. Anything hip or cool going on in the city is likely to be posted on Facebook as an event, and a traveler can get a head start on their trip by joining some groups in Cairo relevant to their interests. For art enthusiasts, I can recommend joining the Darb 1718 group, the Townhouse Gallery group, and the French Culture Center in Cairo group.

If the person painted in the graffiti has angel wings, it means they are a martyr.

Graffiti art has experienced a renaissance in Cairo since the revolution. To see some of the best work of this movement, you go to Mohammed Mahmoud Street just outside the American University downtown campus. You may even see graffiti art in progress. Mohamed Mahmoud Street is notorious as the site of many street battles between Egyptian youth and the military since the Arab Spring. After doing this, you might take a stroll to the burned out structure of the National Democratic Party building, definite proof that the revolution remains unfinished.

A particularly interesting time to visit Egypt is during the month of Ramadan, when Egyptians hang out special decorated lanterns and set out tables in some neighborhoods with food for anyone who cares to sit and break the fast. However, the downside is that bars close during this month and Egyptians are legally barred from drinking.

Pillow Talk

Dina’s Hostel is the place to stay in Cairo. The place vaguely feels like you are staying in your friend’s apartment, with an owner on hand who has the most up to date information about Cairo. There is also the Windsor Hotel downtown, which used to be frequented by British officers and still retains the flavor of this bygone time. For an option outside of downtown and further away from Tahrir, try the Horus Hotel, with its friendly hotel staff and pretty terrace. For something more upscale, try the Marriott in Zamalek. It is the most picturesque of the expensive hotels in Cairo, and makes a good effort at oriental décor.

Fork Out

The ominous doors of Abou El Sid

While any little falafel stand has the possibility to impress, head to Abou el Sid in Zamelek for a step back in time. Eat at Sequoia for the nile view, Prince in Imbeba for the street scene, or Cairo Kitchen in Zamalek, for home-cooked restaurant food – a newly-opened favorite in the city. Then finish it off with a takeout of sweets from the Syrian sweet shop Bloudan on Mahmoud Bassiony Street, or Egyptian sweets from Tseppas on Kasr el Ainy Street.

Drop In

Cairo is a city where an authentic night out might look more tame than its European city counterparts. Remember, Egypt is still a conservative society by western standards.With this in mind, the bar at the center of the local drinking scene is Horreya (freedom) bar downtown. It remains the place to meet the drinking and liberal inhabitants of Cairo. There is also Odeon Palace Bar, Carlton Hotel Bar, or the more upscale Cairo Jazz Club in Mohandisseen, which occasionally has music. For a still more upscale choice, you might try the L’Aubergine in Zamalek. That said, if you really need to dance, many of the boats along the Nile are discos, but they are expensive and tend to be frequented by foreign exchange students as much as locals.

Getting There

There aren’t many ways to get to Cairo beyond the major airlines. There are high-end cruise ships that go from Alexandria to Cyprus and other ports in the Mediterranean. The budget Arabiya Airline flies to Alexandria and it’s a 3 hour train ride to Cairo from there.

More Juice

Cairo is known for having a robust blog scene, many commenting in English on Egyptian current events. One of the most famous is Sand Monkey. In addition, sites like Cairo360 and Filbalad serve up reviews and an event schedule for all Cairo’s hot spots. For political or current events buffs, you might check out English daily newspapers such as the Daily News Egypt.

Hard Copy

Lonely Planet and Rough Guide Egypt are both standard possibilities for travel guides on Cairo. In addition, take a look at these titles: The Yacoubian Building (a critique of post-1952 Egypt and arguably the most read contemporary book on the country, with a film of the same name), anything by Egyptian Nobel Prize winner Naguib Mafouz, Playing Cards in Cairo and Taxi (a compilation of short stories told by taxi drivers).

Silver Screen

Cairo is the Hollywood of the Arab world. With many cinemas in Cairo showing only Egyptian films, catching a local flick while in Cairo could not be easier. However, for the film buffs out there, I offer these recommendations:
Yacobian Building based on the book. 678 (2010), a film that talks about the issue of sexual harassment in Egypt. El Banat Dol (“These Girls”) (2007), a documentary about girls who live on the street in Cairo.

Soundtrack to the City

Qaseedat Misr – Om Khalthoum
The Shisha Song
Koli Youm – Wust el Balad
Hany Adel and Amir Eid – Sout Horreya

“OP OP OP OP OPPAN GANGNAM STYLE!” Dancing to the ubiquitous Korean hit on my own in front of a crowd of four hundred Filipinos with an Elton John lookalike and four lingerie models behind me wasn’t what I imagined the average night out in Dubai to entail. In fact, before I left for Dubai I was told that “you can only drink in hotels” which made me a tad sceptical about the possibility of a good night out at all, envisaging as I was a nightlife scene composed of sunburnt expats squeezed into Hilton lobby bars, with the Lighthouse Family or other muzak playing in the background. But, for better or worse, the city feels much more Western than you would imagine, with a plethora of pubs and bars masquerading as hotels set up for drunken decadence. The city has become particularly infamous for its brunches, a four-hour window to consume as much food and drink as you can for a set price.

Brunch – Dubai style

With a soggy head from the previous night, we headed for brunch at “The Warehouse”, known for its debauchery rather than fine-dining. Yet before the consumption of anything greasy had even attempted to curtail the midday hangover, the shots had come out… accompanying the beer chaser… alongside the re-hydration Chardonnay. And with the combination of sunshine, BBQ’d meat and free-flowing booze, the atmosphere quickly became one of an animated, if not particularly Middle Eastern, party. It was a suitably heavy and delicious four hours spent at the table, leaving both the pork buffet and the bar staff decimated by the desperate expats. And then the music started and the tables quickly cleared as everyone streamed to the ‘club night’ in the upstairs bar. Perhaps it was one of the few places in Dubai where hands and tongues were allowed to be everywhere, but the occasional twitch of a curtain reminded you that it was 30 degrees, the sun was shining and it was still only 5pm.

Having suitably gorged ourselves all afternoon we headed to our main destination for the evening, that night’s Live@Atlantis gig, a semi-regular event held on the world famous Palm Jumeira with different acts headlining. On this occasion Noel Gallagher and Richard Ashcroft were playing, with Zane Lowe performing a DJ set. The evening suitably blurry by now, I had already lost the others and so found some fellow gig-goers to share a taxi. 

A musical Oasis in the desert

Live@Atlantis felt unerringly similar to a British festival set up (albeit V Festival rather than Glastonbury), with the added bonus of hot weather and a beach. There were drunken groups of lads swaying around, girls with dubious luminous make up and the waft of greasy food intermingling with the soundwaves. Richard Ashcroft was up first with an acoustic set which perhaps deserved a more intimate setting, yet there were a few classics that got the crowd mesmerised, with a stripped back version of Bittersweet Symphony providing a fitting end.

The Filipino Elton, Jay-Z and Spice Girls belting out Celine Dion…

In between sets I looked around and it seemed a predominantly British crowd, though in our small group were a Canadian, an Indian Australian, French girls, two Filipino girls and a Palestinian, an indication of the cosmopolitan make-up of the city. “What brought you to Dubai?” was an obvious question I asked them all, and for most it was the lure of tax free earnings. What was interesting was the follow up from many of them: “I said that I would only stay for two years. That was five years ago”. Clearly the money is a big initial draw, but the weather, food and opulent lifestyle made it hard for people to leave.

As Noel and his High Flying Birds came on stage we bundled our way to the front. The set started off with some tub-thumping tunes from his new band, but you could sense the crowd were not here for the newbies and were waiting for some Oasis classics to kick in. We bopped along for a bit in anticipation and managed to hold on for “Digsy’s diner”, but soon our bladders got the better of us and we sloped to the toilets at the back, from where we could hear a boorish crowd chanting along to “Don’t look back in anger”. We picked up a few more ciders and sat on the water’s edge to share a shisha and people watch, before going all out to Zane Lowe’s dubstep session.

Ride em cowboy

We were beginning to run out of steam but were still keen to sample some of the high life and so jumped into a taxi Downtown. At the base of the tallest building in the world is the Armani hotel, one of several designer hotel/bars where the beautiful people come to party. The club was as chic as you would imagine, with a sculpted white-neon wall reflecting on the primped and preened party-goers. It’s free to enter, but the price of drinks keep the riff raff out (expect to pay over a tenner for most drinks). Our friends escorted us through the bar to a circular table with a 2 litre bottle of vodka waiting for us. Whilst I wasn’t quite sure how we had bagged the best table in the house I wasn’t complaining, and was about to tuck in before a bouncer politely shuffled me along (it turns out there was a mix-up and that bottle of vodka was for someone who didn’t mind paying £1000 for the pleasure).

Hot in the city tonight…

Wealth, rather the perception of wealth, is such a big deal to some Dubai residents that my local friends knew of people living in bedsit apartments so they could afford to regularly come to these designer clubs and show their financial muscle.  Given the fortunes that the Emirati have amassed and a large reason people move here is for tax free earnings, it shouldn’t come as a surprise that the display of wealth is a large part of Dubai nightlife. But there are plenty of less expensive and varied things to do if you hunt around for them (the next night we headed to Ravis, a Pakistani restaurant serving the best slap-up curry you could wish for under a fiver). It seems in Dubai that you are able to have your cake and eat it, just remember to wipe it out of your beard before dancing.

Noel Gallagher and Richard Ashcroft were playing as part of the Live @ Atlantis events. For future events with Arabic, Indian and European music artists check out their website. Atlantis also hosts one day Sandance festivals occasionally throughout the year, with Florence & the Machine headlining on 10th May 2013. Check out http://sandance.ae/ for more.

“We’ll spend a few nights in Ho Chi Minh and figure it out from there.”

Nine days later, we’re leaving Vietnam – from Ho Chi Minh City, having only left to visit the nearby Mekong Delta. It’s one of the debacles of extended travel, especially in South East Asia: there’s so much to see, so many cities, countries to go to, incredible sights to see… But I’m tired. Tired of traveling every third day. Tired of rushing to see this or visit that. Am I traveling to sightsee or to experience? Definitely both to a certain extent; sometimes you just gotta slow it down though.

Ho Chi Minh City (formerly, and more romantically, Saigon) is not the place to “slow it down” in the sense of tranquil relaxation. Saigon is a city in all the ways that are both discomforting and inspiring about urban centers. The traffic, noise, smog, and heat that are ubiquitous in much of South East Asia have been perfected here. But the energy, the food, the activity, the community are equally inescapable. There’s something about city life that is in my nature, not to mention in my job description as a correspondent for Urban Travel Blog, right?!

“I’ll take the big sordid dirty crooked city.” – Philip Marlowe

The streets of Saigon are overflowing with throngs of motorbikes moving in a seemingly lawless flood resembling some sort of apocalyptic exodus. I think that “Keep Calm and Carry On” quote may have been a result of an attempted street crossing in Vietnam. With such terrifying traffic conditions, the decision was quite obvious: we have to rent motorbikes. At a steep $4-a-day, we got our wheels the day after we arrived and they kept us mobile for our entire stay in Vietnam (even hauled us to Mekong). Surprisingly, once you’re in it, the flow of traffic is (relatively) sensible, and all of those hours playing Mario Kart finally reaped tangible, even life-saving benefits (I told you mom!). If you’ve ever been a bull during the running of the bulls in Pamplona, you kind of get the idea (if you’ve ever been a bull and you’re reading this – e-mail me and let’s get you a book deal).

The Pham Ngu Lao area in District 1 is the main area for travelers, but it’s not quite as overrun as Khao San Road in Bangkok, and generally feels a little grittier than a lot of roads oft-traveled. The beer is cheap, the crappy souvenirs and sunglasses are aplenty, and the touristy restaurants cater to exactly what you’ve been craving as a traveler abroad so that, whilst you feel ashamed for going to them, you just can’t help yourself. They’ve also figured out that it’s fun to drink really cheap beer and sit on the street in plastic chairs that are meant to be used in a kindergarten classroom. Okay… That’s all off my chest now.

After I’d gotten my fill of American breakfast, I did manage to get out and around, exploring the city and getting my hands (and mouth) on some delicious Vietnamese food. I have a favorite Phở restaurant in LA, so I was on the lookout for a place that could outdo it. Fortunately phở is everywhere and extremely cheap, so I was able to rack up several great tastings, none of which, I’m proud to say, completely puts Phở So 1 in (my hometown of) Van Nuys to shame. Bánh xèo, essentially a Vietnamese crepe, filled with shrimp, sprouts, and diced green onion became my staple breakfast on the street or at food markets. Additionally, due to the history of French involvement in the area, delicious bakeries are found on nearly every block, maybe the only positive hold-over from an era of colonialism.

Speaking of foreign involvement in Vietnam, the War Remnants Museum is a difficult but necessary visit while in Ho Chi Minh City. As an American it’s strange to confront the atrocious reality of a war not so far in the past. Without delving into the political quagmire of US foreign policy (then or now), it’s undeniably tragic to sift through the pictures, stories, and details of such a devastating event in our collective history. The museum was a depressing experience for me, but I think an important one, and I would highly recommend spending some time there.

Other attractions to check out on the “tourist-circuit” are the Reunification Palace, the Central Post Office, and the mini Notre Dame Cathedral. None of these are particularly spectacular, but they are all really close to each other and give you a sense of the city’s unique history. More interesting, in my opinion, are the markets like Chợ Bến Thành and Chợ Bình Tây that are brimming with vendors selling just about everything you can imagine. Whether you’re looking for (bizarre) food, clothes, spices, gifts, or just something to do, you can easily get lost and spend an afternoon at any of the multitude of markets throughout the city.

You can only drink shitty beer on plastic kindergarten chairs for so many nights in a row, so one evening we headed to the Bitexco Financial Tower to have some drinks at the bar, Alto, on the 52^nd floor. Every now and then it’s nice to class it up, and when expensive drinks are still sub-$5, it’s a no-brainer. The view of the sunset from the tower was really beautiful and the bar was great. Definitely recommend checking it out if you’re in HCMC.

Oh, and because I know you were wondering: YES “On The Road” did get on the court and play some tennis in Saigon. Sorry for making you hold your breath till the end on that one.

Your first ever On The Road post? Catch up with all of Vince’s adventures (and games of tennis) since he left Los Angeles, starting with pre-journey thoughts in Chicago, his adventures in India – including visiting Mumbia and Goa, a journey to the Hampi ruins and several days in New Delhi, plus of course a day trip to the Taj Mahal – and his uncovering of the good sides of Bangkok. Next stops Singapore and Kuala Lumpur.

As I teetered at the top of the dune in the blistering desert heat, head as dry as a cactus, lungs as polluted as a Beijing bypass, I found myself wanting for nothing more than to ride a “horse designed by committee”. It’s incredible how circumstance affects desires…

Head over heels for the desert

We arrived in Dubai a few days earlier to enjoy the city’s nightlife and had planned to end our week in the Middle East with an overnight trip to the desert for some true bromance and to see what the area was like before Sheikh Rashid masterminded the exponential boom of sky scrapers.

We were picked up by Suliman, a son of a Zanzibar army officer who has lived in Dubai for the last 30 years and used to play on the beaches now turned into multi-million pound tourist complexes. “Are you Italian?” asked Suliman, as we began to head out to the desert. We answered negatively. “Good.” He replied. “The last time I had Italians dune bashing they forced me to go faster. So I did. And they were sick all over my jeep.”

Dune bashing is in essence simply riding a jeep up and down dune hills. But in practice it is far from simple as the sands are constantly shifting and once you get to the crest of the dune you have to judge/hope/pray that there is not a vertical downward slope the other side. Suliman’s experience at reading the sand and benevolence to his non-Latin passengers meant we always felt on the right side of danger, except for when his hands left the wheel nearly capsizing us at the top of a 40 foot dune (I’m sure he knew what he was doing). Dune bashing is a popular local past-time on the weekend in Dubai, where the Emirati and expats take great pride in their beloved 4×4 vehicles. As there is no parks or places to walk in the city this feels a bit like a distorted, carbon-heavy alternative of “dog walking”, with people taking their four-wheeled pets out to the country for a spin.

The Bash Street Kids

We survived the bashing in one piece and headed to watch sunset at the camp, where all the different tour safari jeeps meet for a barbecue and entertainment. First served up was a chicken schwarma (the local take on a kebab, stuffed with chips for that extra greasy goodness) with a fairly generous buffet to follow. There was also entertainment put on and when the brochure said that there would be belly dancing I thought I knew what to expect. And whilst the belly dancing was as you would think, with an impressive display of booty shaking (albeit the dancer looked more Russian than authentic Bedouin belle), what really bedazzled was the other act of the night: a man best described as a cross between Cliff Richard and Dale Winton wearing a perma-grin and a garish dress. His act involved spinning around furiously for five minutes with the dress pirouetting around him as it erupted in a display of fairly lights. A stunned crowd looked on and then gave him the rapturous reception he deserved before returning to their lamb kofte. Whilst they may not have been a traditional Bedouin experience it was a mouth-watering and eye-opening evening all the same.

You spin me round, baby right round…

The entertainment finished relatively early so we drove back to our own private camp with Suliman. The camp was perfectly set up for star-gazing, with open fronted shelters for sleeping and a large fire pit set up in the middle, and most importantly a large crate of beer. Unfortunately the stars were not quite as clear as you would imagine, as the burning throb of Dubai city shimmered permanently over the horizon. With the camp fire set up it was time for a bit of bromance and to light up the shisha pipe – shisha is basically a massive bong filled with fruit flavoured tobacco, with the fragrant apple scent hiding the fact that you’re toking the equivalent of forty Marlboro reds at once. After a few hours of campfire bonhomie, we ended the night with a ceremonial pitch-black hand-stand and press-up competition before collapsing into our sleeping bags. I had meant to check my sleeping bags for scorpions but drunkenly forgot – thankfully the booze flowing through my veins seemed to fend them off.

The next morning’s activities started early with the choice between camel-riding or sandboarding, neither of which seemed particularly appealing at 7am after a skinful of beer and rum.  We plumped for the sandboarding first as the one least likely to make us vomit and made our way to the top of the dune where an array of boards in various states of repair awaited. I picked what looked like a purpose made sandboard, a short wooden plank designed to propel me at top speed down the dune. As I shimmied to the edge of the slope I was sure my run would end either with high fives all round at the bottom of the dune or crashing out in a high-speed blaze of glory. Alas it ended with a with a miserable face first sand dunk right where I began, earning me a unanimous “nil points”. This was an obvious case of the tools rather than the workman being in the wrong so, after schlepping back up the sand-dune, I changed to another board (an old snowboard) which glided much more effortlessly over the sand. On this evidence, however, snowboarding can sleep safe in the knowledge that sandboarding will never be as fast, fun or cool.

Surfs up!

Suitably humiliated we headed over to the caravan of camels awaiting us. I had heard tales of camel rides being either the most painful thing imaginable or the most pleasurable thing (admittedly for women rather than men) so I approached with a mix of trepidation, anticipation and nausea. As I dutifully held on tight to the seat, the camel stood up much faster than I expected and within a nano second we were eight feet in the air. Once erect, we set off into the wilderness with our guides for a surprisingly relaxing ride, with the rhythmic up and down movements of the camel creating a meditative ambience and a chance for reflection with my fellow travellers. Whilst I wouldn’t rush out to go again, we all agreed it was much more pleasant than we thought… though the 30 minute, rather than the two hour, option still seemed a prudent choice.

And so our desert safari came to an end. As the desert is right on Dubai’s doorstep you can squeeze a great deal into a short overnight sojourn, although this does mean you never really felt a million miles away from civilisation. But if you find yourself in Dubai for more than a couple of days it is well worthwhile heading to the dunes for some alfresco amusement and contemplative reflection. Even if it’s not exactly off the tourist trail it’s a welcome respite from the man-made mega-structures of the city.

Ben’s trip was kindly organised by Gulf Ventures travel company. For further information on all tours please visit www.gulfventures.com, or for desert safaris and excursions contact Sarath Vidanage direct (Tel: +971 4 404 5880 or Mobile: +971 50 552 3297 Email: sarath.vidanage@gulfventures.com). Meanwhile head to Urban Travel Blog’s guide to city breaks in Dubai for more mayhem in the United Arab Emirates.

As a native Los Angeleno, I’m overly dubious of a city’s reputation or stereotypes, as I’m constantly defending the fallacious ones about my hometown. Amsterdam is another victim of the pigeonhole; sure, there are the drugs and red light district, but it’s a damn beautiful city beyond that. In my experience on the traveler circuit, Bangkok seems to get a less-than-enthusiastic rap. We’ve all heard about the backpacker-infested Khao San Road, the grime that is Soi Cowboy, and the surrounding crowded, smoggy concrete jungle that deserves little more attention than a few days in transit to a beautiful island in the Gulf of Thailand. I disagree.

View from the 19th Floor

The slight disclaimer to my rose-coloured Bangkok glasses is that I linked up with some family friends who are Bangkok natives. As we all know, it’s always more fun and interesting when you know someone in a place you’re visiting. It also doesn’t hurt when those family friends hook you and your friends up with a three-bedroom condominium on the 19^th floor overlooking the river and the entire city skyline. For free. They also had a litter of six Beagle puppies for us to play with. Okay… Fair enough if you don’t like Bangkok as much as I do. I cheated. But give it a shot.

On first impression, flying down the highway into the city from the airport, Bangkok is impressively large and modern (especially when you’re arriving from India). The city rises up like New York, but also sprawls out like Los Angeles, seemingly forever. Once you’re down on the ground, it’s got so many different areas to explore, all teeming with activity. Littered with parks, shopping malls, restaurants, as well as beautiful architecture (both traditional Thai and modern), Bangkok is a thriving metropolis that’s cut down the middle by a snaking river.

Navigating Bangkok’s Sky Train

As you probably expected, I’d love to talk a little bit about the public transportation in Bangkok, and I thank you for indulging me. By now you probably think I’m on the payroll of the International Bureau of Public Transportation (definitely doesn’t exist), but I can assure you I’m not; I’m just a man of the people. The sky-train and MRT are really nice, comfortable, and cover the city fairly extensively. You can head all the way up to Chatuchak park and its adjacent market (best on Sundays), which is a crazy place to walk around and do some shopping; go walk around Lumphini Park (and even hit the weights for free in the middle of the park); catch a tourist boat on the river from Saphan Taksin Station that will take you to Chinatown, The Grand Palace, or Wat Arun; and hit nightlife spots around Sukhumvit or Silom Road, all solely traveling by Sky-Train and underground metro.

Out in Sukhumvit

Siam Station, which connects the two sky-train lines, served as the Urban Travel Blog “On The Road” office for the duration of my stay in Thailand’s capital. Not only is it a main public transport hub, the area also has a few huge shopping malls (MBK, Siam Center, Siam Paragon), coffee shops, restaurants, and everything other kind of shop imaginable. Siam Paragon is legitimately the nicest mall I’ve ever been in. I don’t really even shop, but the Siam Station area is great to find some air-con and good wifi to get some work done in the heart of the city (True Coffee was our go-to).

Wat a beauty!

I’d recommend cutting out a good day or two to hit up some of the historic/cultural monuments of the city. Wat Arun, built on the bank of the Chao Praya River, is a beautiful Buddhist temple, with a towering “prang,” or spire, in the center. It’s ornately decorated with shards of colorful porcelain, reminiscent of Gaudi or the Watts Towers, but obviously markedly different architecturally. The stairs that lead up to the top of the spire are the steepest, most death-defying stairs I’ve climbed, but the view at the top is worth the climb.

Sculptures on the Wat Phra Kaew

Across the river, set behind four high walls, The Grand Palace compound is probably Bangkok’s most popular tourist destination (and priced as such at about $15).  I’d recommend going in the morning, as strolling around the complex at midday almost sent me into a heat-stroke-induced coma. It was well worth it though, being one of the more impressive architectural and historical assets of the city. Once you’re in, you could spend all day looking around the different temples, pavilions, halls, gardens, etc. The amazing sculptural and mural work surrounding Wat Phra Kaew, or The Temple of the Emerald Buddha, is enough to make the trip worthwhile.  Regarded as the most sacred temple in Thailand, Wat Phra Kaew houses a cluster of fascinating and elaborately decorated structures, statues, paintings, and corridors. Although we’re always looking to get off the beaten path, sometimes there’s a reason that certain places are highly frequented by tourists. Definitely worth the money.

No need for fancy restaurants

Another draw of Bangkok is the variety and quality of food; from street food to fine dining this city offers every different type of cuisine at a range of qualities for generally affordable prices. Obviously the Thai food is great and ubiquitous, but we had some really good Japanese Shabu-Shabu near Siam Station, Vietnamese near Silom Road, and really incredible (and cheap) Thai-Muslim Fusion at a place called Roti-Mataba on Phra Ar-Thit Road. I’m a big fan of street food when it’s done right, and Bangkok has no shortage of it. From sweets like mango with sticky rice, to satay sticks, to classics like Pad Thai, it’s nice to be able eat deliciously and cheaply some days.

The Bangkok Open

If you follow sport closely, you’ve probably heard by now about the Urban Travel Blog “On The Road” Tennis Open that occurred in Bangkok last month. Although we’re traveling light, my friend Franklin and I opted to lug around our tennis rackets as motivation to get on the court as much as possible. In an epic bout, we took to the courts of Chulalongkorn University, duking it out to see who would be crowned the King of Bangkok. In what has been deemed the shortest (but most impressive) match in the history of Tennis, 30 minutes and a lot of swearing about the heat later, yours truly was crowned the champion.*

*Official results are subject to the opinion of the author. Certain parties (Franklin) may disagree.

As for other racket sports, famously associated with the city, I’m sorry not to be able to report on any ping-pong shows gone awry… nor for that matter any mistaken (or just unexpected) trysts with lady-boys, newly inked face-tattoos, or any other epic tales that would add to the lore of The Kok. I think if you slow down and spend some time to take a look at this city like you would any other place, explore on foot and by train, and get out of Khao San Road, you might find a city with great food, interesting history, beautiful art and kind people.

For those of you who like your Transylvania with edge, but not as the ridge of a vampire’s tooth, then Timișoara is just what Buffy ordered. Although the legend of Vlad Tepeș is the most famous anti-history to come out of the region, it’s the city’s more recent events that have shaped both town and country. Timișoara is the home of the 1989 Romanian revolution that ousted the ruling party and ended with the execution of dictator Ceaușescu. The bullets that signalled big C’s terminal year are memorialized by the holes dotting the Austro-Hungarian architecture.

I see the light.

Once a border city within what used to be known as the Banat region, acting as a base for Romans, Turks, Austro-Hungarians, and finally Romanians, Timisoara remains one of the country’s most multicultural (and in turn progressive and developed) cities with large Hungarian, German and Serbian communities. Despite being only the country’s 4th largest city, with its strong economy, growing tourism and great quality of life it is often held up a paragon of modern Romania, and many are hoping to apply the ‘Timisoara Model’ to their own corner of the country.

Best of the Beaten Track

Timișoara’s beaten path is a journey through theology, but for those on a time constraint for finding god the Orthodox cathedral is the sanctuary not to be missed, the Byzantine-inspired interior is worth a prayer or two. While the Banat History Museum, just through Piața Operei tells the story of Timișoara, from the first rampart to the present. The Banat museum is situated inside a 14th century castle and acts as an ideal starting point for a architectural tour into the city’s old center, Piața Unirii. Much of the architecture you will see on the way is thanks to Hungarian architect Laszlo Szekely, who designed in the Art Nouveau Secessionist style began by Austrian Otto Wagner and Hungarian Odon Lechner.

The Banat History Museum welcomes you.

The National Theater inside the opera house is hard to miss as it is a centerpiece for Piața Operei, but remember the cool kids hang at the smaller Hungarian and German State Theaters on the side of the building. In either case, one cannot visit România without seeing some theater; don’t worry, the language barrier won’t stop you from appreciating the passion of the people.

Cafes on the Bega Canal prove a chill respite in the hot weather months when temperatures sometimes reach 95 degrees F, while a tour of the many churches will provide sanctuary in the winter.

Hipster’s Guide

Yum, bere…

A hipster is only worth the beer in his hand and what better place to score a brew-ski in Timișoara than the old Timișoreana brewery: tour included. Ursus, another local beer, bought the brewery in 2001 but still manuafactures Timiș’ favorite refreshment since 1718 the inaugural year the city joined the Hapsburg empire. Follow your local brew with a visit to the old tobacco factory built in 1846.

Morning tour of the brewery got you dragging your feet? Stop by Cafe Mokum for a caffeine pick-me-up with some fine South American beans. Get it to go and walk around the corner to the art museum inside the Palatul Baroc (Baroque Palace) for visiting exhibits, Goya for example, along with permanent exhibitions with work from local artists. Cross the Piața Unirii and grab another large beer at Papillon Cafe, a place for freaks and writers, wrapping up a most decidedly wicked day in “Little Vienna.”

Experience & Events

But don’t end the evening drinking away your recent memories, instead take a long walk across the bridge and down Stradă Zoe to Scart Loc Lejer where an old house hosts a wacky bar with bunk-beds lining the walls and coins glued to the tabletops. A tiny theater in the back of the bar runs off-the-wall performances by Auăleu Teatru. In România need has given rise to creativity and no space is wasted.

Logo for Auăleu Theatre

One of Timi’s endearing nicknames is “the city of flowers,” due to the parks surrounding the city center. Rent a bike and take a spin through the botanical garden, over the bridges and back through the parks-to grandmother’s house we go. Festivals-wise and jazz, theatre, film and even graffiti festivals take place annually, but probably pick of the bunch is the world music festival, Plai, which takes place in the green environs of the Banat Village Museum.

Pillow Talk

Hotel Timișoara: location, location, location right in the middle of the action in Piața Operei. Hostel Costel is a new arrival owned and operated by a trio of young people, one of which greeted me at the door with “we’re all drunk here,” while he all but twirled his ample mustache (inspiration for the logo, by the way). Shared dorms have ten or twelve beds and there are two private rooms with twins. All the sleeping areas are situated in rooms with a spacious airy feeling: well-designed and hospitable. During the off-season you’ll find the owners throwing parties in the kitchen, all guests are invited, not only invited but treated like rock stars. Village life persists not far outside the city center. Inside this malaise of stray dogs, thrashed streets and one-story housing is an oasis of romance known as Boutique Hotel Fleurs d’ Temps. The Victorian-themed lobby and cafe area echo a bygone opulence complete with antique piano and lamps depicting English hunting scenes. The hotel is a remodeled family home, and the staff is made-up of one woman. Every guest is treated with the honor of a family guest by the petite and charming hostess, who cooks, cleans rooms and manages to look fabulous while doing it all.

Fork Out

Meat, cream and polenta. Enjoy arteries.

Traditional Romanian food is NOT just sausages. Get the real deal at Timișoreana (yes, the same name as the beer) Restaurant in Piața Operei. Platters for two are cheap, at about $10, they’ll fill you both for the evening: roast peppers, pork dishes, pickled salads and mamaligă abound and thank the stars for it before a night of drinking. The beers are big and cheap. Casa Bunicii is a more romantic place for traditional fare with floral print wallpaper and dollies to keep you company while you devour that ciolan. Grab a decent sandwich for a midday snack at one of two Luca’s locations; one right next door to Timișoreana and the other in the Piații Unrii. If you long for food of a different origin than the country you are currently visiting than consider the Iulius mall. I know, I know “who is their right mind?” But the international food court is an impressive blend of flavors from some surprising countries and they offer a discount to students.

Drop In

This house smiles at you.

Getting There

Timișoara does host an international airport that major carriers, such as Lufthansa, regularly fly into. However, the cost is sometimes prohibitive so try searching for flights to Budapest or Belgrade. Both of these cities have regular train and bus routes to Timișorara. Taking a train in Eastern Europe is a commitment so be prepared for leisurely travel times. Once in the city, walking is the best way to get around: distances are short and the scenery dynamic. The historic tram cars are fun and rides are inexpensive, but not all locations are accessible by tram or bus.

More Juice

Educate yourself on the 1989 revolution with a short video at Balcanicaucaso.org. But for more touristy info visit România Tourism’s official website, it’s easy to navigate and provides links. Timisoara2021 is a blog dedicated to promoting the city’s highlights to boost it’s support in the competition for European Capital of Culture in 2021. Timisoreni.ro is handy for addresses and maps.

Hard Copy

Goodnight Timi.

Frommer’s offers a comprehensive city guide in print. However, to get a true sense of the place check out Herta Muller, who studied in Timisoara. She writes candidly about life in România during Ceaușescu. Her novel Everything I Possess I Carry with Me (or The Hunger Angel, depending on the translation and edition) won her international acclaim and a Nobel Prize in Literature.

Silver Screen

No one can stop you, so go ahead and do it, watch Nosferatu again. The Way I Spent the End of the World made waves at Cannes a few years back and director Radu Muntean’s The Paper Will be Blue follows a dissident soldier on the night of the 1989 revolution.

Soundtrack to the City

Pro Musica – A tribute to the 1989 revolution
Live folk music at Timișoreana 
Românian Orthodox Chant
Muse – Uprising
Beastie Boys-You Gotta Fight for Your Right to Party

I’ve probably known about the Taj Mahal since I was seven years old; it’s one of those iconic monuments whose form is burned into your world imagery at childhood. I never really considered actually seeing it, until I planned this trip to Asia. Of course, if I was going to India, I’d go to the Taj Mahal – you have to right?

The great white hype

Yes, you have to.

My travel mates and I were actually more willing to skip the Taj than you might imagine. The draw of the classic “sightseeing” destination is not particularly strong for me, or my friends, for whatever reason. I don’t travel to “say I’ve been there” or show people pictures of myself in front of some monument (sorry, let me just dismount from my high-horse real quick). But seriously, the Taj Mahal is one of those works of genius that when you actually experience it in person you finally get it. You get why you’ve seen pictures of this place since you were a kid; you get why millions of people come here every year; you get why it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and on the New Seven Wonders of the World list. I felt the same way when I saw Michelangelo’s David in Florence: Ah, okay, that’s incredibly beautiful (and makes me feel like a failure in life). But I get it now.

Passing through the Great Gate

We took the 6am train to Agra from New Delhi, with a return ticket for later that evening. When we arrived in Agra (around 8am, although check the train timetables because some other trains take up to 4 hours), we negotiated a good rate with a tuk-tuk driver to get us the the Taj Mahal, but there are pre-paid taxis as well just outside the train station. Our driver was a really nice and helpful guy, so we ended up arranging a day-rate of about 400INR (under $8) to take us around the whole day and eventually back to the train station in the evening, which ended up being well worth it. You can get cheaper rides, but he was a stand-up guy and we didn’t mind paying to have him stick with us.

The ticket for the Taj Mahal is 750INR ($14), which is probably the most I spent on any one thing in the whole country! (Make sure you go to the legit ticket-counter, because, like New Delhi, Agra is teeming with hustlers). Entry to the grounds is easy, and within a few minutes you’re walking through the red sandstone outer walls of the compound, with the Taj still out of site. The Great Gate (Darwaza-i rauza) that leads to the gardens surrounding the Taj Mahal is impressive in itself, made of red sandstone with intricate marble work, imposing archways, and domed Chhatris on the top corners. Not a bad entry-way! For a second there I forgot what what we had gone there to see.

Vince was in danger of missing the point

Then we passed through the Great Gate archway which opens up into the gardens surrounding that mausoleum that we did come here to see. The view of the Taj Mahal from the main entrance is that snapshot that you’ve seen a thousand times, which does more to demonstrate the limits of photography than the beauty of this place. Across the few hundred meters of immaculately maintained gardens, a perspectival haze ghosts over the building, like a mountain range from afar. From that distance, it doesn’t quite look real; it’s the kind of view of the kind of building that would have made a Mughal Emperor proud (…I guess that was sort of the point). In that moment, from that perspective, the architectural ingenuity, creativity, and inspiration transcend the building’s own context. I’m not exactly heading up the fan club for exorbitant displays of wealth and empirical excess, but appreciation of the Taj Mahal as a creative masterpiece is all I could help but process. It’s no mystery why most of the pictures you see of this architectural masterpiece are from this very spot. In that moment, from a few hundred meters away, my first impression of was, “Damn. I get it. I’m really glad I didn’t miss this.”

Up close and personal with the world’s most OTT tomb

When Shah Jahan built the Taj Mahal in the mid-17th century as a mausoleum for his deceased wife Mumtaz Mahal, he pretty much doomed all husbands of the future to fall short of memorializing their lost love in an impressive fashion. In fact, as the love story goes, he was so grief stricken by the death of his (third) wife that he wanted to build the most impressive mausoleum ever created. Mahal’s resting place would be so extraordinary, that it would surely not be outdone by the mausoleums of his other wives, which were built in the same complex – this guy was such a sweetheart!

Now’s not the time to point out you got the same tiles in B&Q’s Bonanza Bathroom Sale

The gardens were teeming with tourists, but it’s such an expansive space that it didn’t feel over-crowded (at least not on our visit). The ten-minute stroll from the gate to the Taj, through Persian-inspired gardens, lined with trees, fountains, and a reflecting pool running down the center, seemed pleasantly designed to give the viewer more time to take in the gorgeous building from a slowly changing perspective. When I got up close and personal with the edifice my appreciation only deepened; from a closer vantage point, the fact that the entire building is made out of white marble becomes increasingly apparent, and the way it’s intricately put to use is just stunning. Standing below that enormous dome with its four minaret towers is simply a dwarfing experience. I can only imagine that to have confronted this building in a time before sky scrapers and football stadiums existed must have been dreamlike.

Wherever I lay my hat, that’s my home

The interior is a little anti-climactic. Had the Taj Mahal been a palace, its interior would have probably been equally grandiose and impressive, but inside it’s essentially one big empty room, serving as a mausoleum (with some surrounding peripheral chambers). However, as a resting place for a beloved wife, there is something to be said for the tranquil simplicity of the central chamber with the impressively hollow domed ceiling. But the crowds of tourists, who were so agreeably spaced-out in the gardens, were now bottle-necked into a shuffle through the central mausoleum, making the last bit of the Taj experience slightly less awe-striking as that initial moment. But that first glimpse was all it took to understand why this place is so incredible.

(De)parting view of the Taj

If you want to plan your own Odyssey to the world’s most famous temple to true love, then check out Tucan Travel’s Taj Mahal tours from New Delhi. They offer an eight day itinerary, starting and finishing in the Indian capital, and taking in the Taj, plus other Agra sights, such as Agra Fort and the Tomb of Itimad-Ud-Daulah. You will also spend several days in Jaipur, India’s famous “Pink City”, whose vermillion-hued old town houses all manner of bazaars, palaces and havelis.

That, in fact, brings us to the end of Vince’s travels in India, however stay tuned as he heads further East to Thailand, Vietnam and Indonesia amongst others. More photos and updates on Facebook and Twitter.

Which brings me nicely to the start of “My Perfect Day in Barcelona”, which I’ve been invited to write by Knok.com as part of their 100 Cities to Home Stay in Before You Die initiative. Feel free to come with me! Now, maybe I’ve been hanging around in continental climes for too long, but I’m all about eating sweets in the morning and nothing hits the spot like some traditional Spanish chocolate and churros (which are basically elongated doughnuts, generously coated in sugar). Barcelona’s xurrerias are some of the most charming spots in the city; many started life in the early-mid 1900s when the city was undergoing it’s “Modernista” renaissance (when the Catalan capital went crazy for the art nouveau aesthetic), and have survived pretty much unchanged to this day. One I particularly like is Granja Viader where the ornate floor tiles, waist-coated staff and genteel crowd evoke the elegance of that bygone era.

Suitably stocked up on calories it’s time to get on our bike, quite literally. Barcelona feels tailor-made to be explored by bicycle, with its many bike lanes, beach boulevards and flat terrain. As I already know the city pretty well I might be tempted to rent a bike and head to a funky district like Poble Sec or Gracia, or to stop for a picnic and game of ping pong at Parc de la Ciutadella. But Barcelona newbies should definitely take a tour with Steel Donkeys who offer alternative bicycle rides around the city (I recently trialed their new El Born tour and discovered secret dining clubs, former brothels, old post houses, hidden beaches and more… ending up at the cult Xampaneria bar for a cheap – but very tasty – glass of Cava and delicious sandwich!). If I was feeling flush, I would then take my two wheels all the way out to El Boo Beach Club for a plate of seafood and a cocktail on their terrace on the pier. It’s right on Marbella beach and no doubt some of my local amigos are playing a game of beach volleyball nearby. A great way to end the day… you’d be welcome to join us of course, or you could go for a swim in the Mediterranean and check out the weird and wonderful hipsters posing and pouting on the sands.

As the sun sets and it gets too dark to play it’s time to crack open a cold cerveza from the street hawkers on the beach and savour the moment in the fading light… but not for too long because we’ll need to grab a siesta and get changed before heading out for the night.

How about we meet at Elisabets at 10pm? It’s one of Barcelona’s best tapas bars and we can pig out on classic dishes like choricitos (miniature sausages) pimientos de Padrón (small greeen peppers… one in five is hot!) morcilla amb confitada de cebollas (blood sausage with braised onions) and of course patatas bravas (potato chunks in spicy sauce).

Afterwards it’s time to go on a whirlwind tour of Barcelona’s bar scene… one of the best streets for this – IMHO – is Joaquim Costa in Raval. Once the home of the vile Vampire of Barcelona it’s now the location of several trendy bars like Betty Fords, Oddland and 33/45, whilst just around the corner is the rather suave Marmalade bar. These days it’s easy to pick up a great craft or artisan beer in BCN so there’s no need to stick to bland mega-brand lagers. After the bars close (around 3am) the fiesta is far from over. There are too many late night options to list here, but safe to say our perfect day shouldn’t end until the last club in the city kicks us out…

Ok that’s about it from me! I’ll be back with another update From The Editor soon with the latest goings-on at UTB. Meanwhile why don’t you check out some of the other Perfect Days that bloggers around the world have been submitting for Knok’s 100 Great Cities to Home Swap…

Dubai is one of seven emirates that make up the UAE, United Arab Emirates, a country that only came into existence forty one years ago. The discovery of vast oil reserves soon after rapidly created a millionaires’ paradise. Twenty five years ago Dubai was a small desert town famed for pearl diving, but with the help of oil revenue the city many love to loathe erupted from the desert. Gleaming skyscrapers, obscene luxury and extravagant mod cons, Dubai presents itself as one of the financial and tourism capitals of the world, and with over 80% of the population expatriates (the majority from India, Pakistan and the Philippines), the city certainly has a global feel… but there a dark side if you choose to look.

Welcome to the desert

Following America’s lead, the UAE certainly believes bigger is better. The record breaking Downtown Dubai boasts the Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest building, Dubai Mall, the world’s largest shopping mall and The Dubai Fountain – yep, you guessed it, the world’s largest fountain… built right here in a water-starved desert. Can I get drunk, I hear you ask? There are some of the world’s best restaurants, bars and clubs where you can drink to your heart’s content. No women don’t need to cover up but it is recommended to dress demurely in public.

The city runs along the coastline and is easily navigated by the 14 lane behemoth known as Sheikh Zayed Road. Starting in Deira, known as old Dubai you can see how Dubai used to be. Next is Downtown Dubai where most tourists spend all their money and time shopping. Further on is the man-made Palm Jumeriah Island and the Marina. The metro runs along the road all the way and is the budget way to get around although taxis are numerous and remarkably cheap, $15 for an hour long trip! Unless you enjoy sweating profusely from every pore in your body do not attempt a visit between June and September, the season the locals call hell, as it can get to 55C.

Best of the Beaten Track

For most Downtown Dubai, the home of all the brand new mega attractions, is the obvious place to start exploring. Although impressive some say it lacks soul… and of course it’s designed to sap your cash reserves. My favourite part of town is the souks. The traditional marketplaces of yesteryear have been renovated, in true Dubai style, to make them bigger and better and are definitely worth getting lost in. There are gold, spice, garment and tourist tat areas and a dishevelled Hindu temple. Be prepared to haggle as they will always give you at least 50% off if you have the bartering skills.

Downtown Dubai will leave you happy but broke

Many visitors come to Dubai for the shopping, and one of my favourite malls is Wafi. Someone with more money than sense decided to recreate the Great Pyramid of Giza, Abu Simbel and other Egyptian monuments and turn them into a hotel and shopping complex, and – if you ignore the obvious ridiculousness -it’s actually quite impressive! Amongst the entertainment (every Dubai shopping centre provides entertainment!) are free movies under the stars at their rooftop gardens. Meanwhile Mall of the Emirates houses Ski Dubai where you can pet penguins, go zorbing in the snow or hit the slopes on five different graded runs.

Once you’re shopped out you can hit the beaches and Dubai has miles of well kept, sunny spots to enjoy. Jumeirah beach park is one of the city’s finest containing 12 hectares of landscaped kid’s areas, BBQ spots and of course a sizeable beach and the gloriously warm Arabian Gulf. Another great spot is Nasimi Beach which is at the Atlantis Hotel on the Palm Jumeriah. Most tourists just come to take their picture in front of the hotel but why not enjoy a swim and, lack of sandstorm permitting, panoramic views of the city.

Hipster’s Guide

Sounds crazy but most ‘tourists’ are too busy shopping and sun baking to visit the enjoyable and eye opening Dubai Museum. Housed in an old fort close to the souks it’ll give you a good idea of what Dubai was and how people lived before they were glued to mobiles, driving sports cars and sipping lattes. Just a short walk away is Bastakiya a charming labyrinth of alleyways and small shops, where you can take a great walking tour. From here go to the creek where you can see all the Abras: traditional Arabic boats still used to transport goods, there are various stops where you can hop on for a relaxing cruise across the creek.

Plenty of beaches to keep everyone sun baked

Experience & Events

No trip to Dubai is complete without venturing out of the perfectly manicured concrete jungle into the wild desolate desert. The more foolhardy can rent a car and head out into the sands, whilst the slightly more sensible will opt for “desert safari” from one of many local tour operators. You will be picked up at your hotel and taken into the desert for a savage dune bashing: but beware they drive like they’ve stolen their Landcruisers and some drivers even let guests have a go at the wheel, so if you suffer from motion sickness this might not be for you. After you’ve had enough of being thrown about you in a 4×4 you are taken to a fake Bedouin camp where you can wear local clothes, ride a camel, go sand boarding and have dinner while watching belly dancers and fire jugglers. Not the most authentic Arabic experience… but a real good laugh if you go with a fun group.

Wild camels being rubbish models

Pillow Talk

It’s over the top and not to everyone’s taste due to the heavy use of gold decoration and bedroom ceiling mirrors but it does boast a menu of seventeen different pillows and each suite has use of a butler.

Stay here if you love gold and the super rich

Fork Out

Dubai is a foodies’ mecca with some of the best international names and Michelin-starred chefs opening up eateries including La Petite Maison, Zuma, Reflets Par Pierre Gagnaire, The Ivy and the list goes on. All the top end hotels have three or four restaurants so it’s best to do your research before heading out. For those who don’t want to break the bank there is a great selection of homegrown restaurants that reflect the multinational feel of the city. For Iranian try Iran Zamin with branches in Deira and the Marina. Ravi’s famous for its Indian and Pakistani dishes, has branches everywhere and is a favourite with taxi drivers for tasty cheap eats. Of course all the malls have food courts with reasonably priced quality food.

Drop In

Dubai has more than its fair share of swanky clubs with the super elite spending money on champagne that’s delivered with sparklers blazing and a vast number of servers. Receipts are kept as trophies and published online, the most ridiculous being $182,000 in one night. If that’s your style then your new favourite haunts might include Armani, Crystal, Cavalli and Boudoir to name a few. One of the nicer chic clubs is 360 as it’s an open deck pavilion in the water with 360 degree views of the sea and nightscape. Barasti Beach Bar calls itself an icon of the Dubai social scene, has five bars, live music every night and beach access all day.  Most locals refer to it as “Bar Nasty” as it’s a favourite haunt for drunken expats… and yet somehow we always find ourselves going back again and again.

Getting There

Possibly compensating for something

More Juice

One of the best sites for local info and reviews is Time Out Dubai with current daily and weekly listings. The Government of Dubai has useful portal answering all questions tourists may be concerned about, and you can even email in and they’ll reply with a day.

Hard Copy

The Explorer is a UAE publishing company and does the best guidebook to the city which can be purchased at the airport, every bookstore and many newsagents. It’s more in depth than the Lonely Planet and in my view easier to use. Camels Love Dubai, by Stephen Wilkins, is the story of Mohan Adikaram from Sri Lanka who loses his family in the 2004 Tsunami, and then moves to Dubai and goes to university there after being fostered by a rich local resident. Desperate in Dubai, by Ameera Al Hakawati, tells the tale of Lady Luxe and several other women living in Dubai, on the hunt for husbands, or, failing that, nocturnal diversions…

Silver Screen

Famous/credible films set or shot in Dubai are few and far between. Probably the best is City of Life, which offers an interesting look at the diverse lives that meet here in UAE, whilst Mission Impossible – Ghost Protocol, Code 46 and Ridley Scott’s Body of Lies all feature scenes from the city. They say a TOWIE movie could be in the making…

Soundtrack to the City

The Narcicyst featuring Shadia Mansour – Hamdulillah
Sandwash – Alabaster
Fatiniza – Out of Control