Beelzebub comes in many guises and, according to local legend, the Dark One once lurked beneath Krakow’s Market Square. Besides being a midget, this fellow was clearly bad news for, as chroniclers recounted, he sported a treacherous mix of Spanish and German garb.

It’s not surprising that ye olde Cracovians were a little jittery about what was going on down under the cobbles, because the city boasts an entire subterranean kingdom, an agreeable hang-out for ghouls, gremlins and other gobblers of the soul. Most of the cellars were once ground floors, yet due to the repeated rebuilding of houses after fires, and the constant laying of new roads, they eventually disappeared beneath the earth’s surface.

Since the coming of the free market in 1989, these delightful dungeons have enjoyed a new lease of life. Entrepreneurs have resurrected the spaces as bars, galleries and even swimming pools in the case of a few swish hotels. A trip to Krakow would be incomplete without a saunter down into one of these caverns. But remember, steer clear of vertically-challenged chaps promising pots of gold, especially if they’re wearing German-Spanish togs….

Chimera

Roasting potatoes on the open fire in Chimera

Galeria Przyrody

This is one more quiet spot before we up the tempo. “The Gallery of Nature” is a little off the beaten track but all the better for it. Descend the stairs and find yourself in Captain Nemo’s Cracovian pied-a-terre. This is a non-smoking venue, so no seaweed cigars from the Captain’s table. Still, the aquaria provide plenty of oceanic eye candy, and there’s a royal roster of teas on offer from all corners of the globe. A recent addition is an enticing range of bottled Belgian beers. All-in-all a perfect place to go for a quiet chinwag.
ul. Studencka 15

Łódź Kaliska

Relax amongst LK's understated decor...

Camelot

You won’t spot any knights here, nor holy grails for that matter. But it’s certainly worth going on a quest to track down this venue. As it goes, the ground floor cafe and the gallery above both merit medals, but let’s stick to the nether regions for now. Camelot has a beautifully restored medieval cellar, and at weekends you can catch top calibre concerts by some of Cracow’s finest acts. Jazz and Klezmer are regular grooves, and for Polish-speakers, legendary compere Kazimierz Madej leads the wittiest cabaret in town.
ul. Sw. Tomasza 17
www.lochcamelot.art.pl

Alchemia

Jazzin' up Krakow's underground scene

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There’s no denying that the Poles love their pierogi (dumplings). Found in cheap and cheerful cafeterias, upmarket restaurants and hospitable households throughout the country, these doughy delights are an essential part of any visit to Poland. Perhaps somewhat stodgy for non-natives, pierogi are one of the mainstays of traditional Polish cuisine. Baked, boiled or fried and usually served smothered with lard, sour cream, butter or onions, pierogi come in a variety of sweet and savoury fillings. Pierogi ruskie (cottage cheese, potato and onion), pierogi z kapusta i grzybami (with cabbage and mushrooms) and pierogi z miesem (with meat) form the holy trinity but those with a sweet tooth will be happy to know that sweet cheese and fruit varieties are also popular. Seen by some as a drab reminder of Poland’s somewhat austere past, pierogi are currently enjoying something of a revival. The classics still prevail, but they can often now be found alongside more contemporary takes on this quintessential Polish dish such as venison with bacon or chicken with Mexican chili beans. Sharpen your forks and forewarn your stomaches as we take in the best five ‘pierogarnias’ in Krakow…

Zapiecek Polskie Pierogarnia

Taste better than they look...

ul. Sławkowska 32, www.zapiecek.eu

Pierożki u Vincenta

Pierożki u Vincenta is a popular choice located in Kazimierz, Krakow’s former Jewish quarter. This bright, airy spot on Bozego Ciala has table service, making it ideal for the cautious tourist wishing to avoid any blushes whilst trying to pronounce ‘kapusta i grzybami’ in a busy queue. The extensive menu features the traditional savoury or sweet favourites alongside more adventurous fillings like the Emporer’s Pierogi with lamb, rosemary and thyme, and Napoleon’s Pierogi with liver and apple. The mixed portions are a good option if a decision is hard to make. All dishes come with a choice of toppings and sauces. The meat and mushroom, and Mexican pierogi are highly recommended. Vincent’s Pierogi are often in demand, so you may have to wait your turn for a table.

ul. Bożego Ciała 12, www.pierozkiuvincenta.pl

U Babci Maliny

A hit with locals and tourists alike, the venerable U Babci Maliny has two establishments within the old town. While both are decked out with a faux folksy charm, it is the larger branch on Sławkowska that stands out with its fish tank and slightly curious nursery vibe. Portions here are large, filling and good value for money; those wishing to walk on the wild side can even try their dumplings fried. The pierogi ruskie are the best in town. Those looking for some liquid refreshment to accompany their meal will be pleased to know that the smaller branch on Szpitalna serves beer.

ul. Sławkowska 17 and ul. Szpitalna 38, www.kuchniaubabcimaliny.pl

U Pani Stasi

The joy of dumplings

ul. Mikołajska 16

Awiw Restauracja

Occupying a sunny spot on the bustling ulica Szeroka in Kazimierz, Awiw Restauracja is a good choice for those wishing to indulge. Located towards the pricier end of the pierogi spectrum, Awiw offers a tantalising range of dumplings to tempt all tastes. Fillings range from mushroom with cabbage to the more regal venison with bacon and veal with chanterelles. When the weather is good, Awiw’s outside seating is a real bonus. Look out for the daily happy hour, which sees all pierogi reduced by around 20%.

ul. Szeroka 13, www.awiw.pl

….Pierogi Festival

If you simply can’t enough of the little doughy pockets then be sure to time your visit to Krakow with the city’s Pierogi Festival, in August. Krakow’s Festival Bureau should have the exact dates – if not ask Cracow Life. (For other weird festivals in Krakow and beyond then we recommend you check out our feature on the bizarre festivals and cool events around the world).

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“I like the trams, there is something old, fragile, romantic and comfortable about them. In this city everyone uses them, even the pensioners. I often wonder where do they all have to go? What do they have to do? Some trams are so old that you have to climb a ladder to get into them, that is not easy for the elderly! As a photographer, I thought what do I do with this? I realized it’s the windows, a screen when you pass it, you can’t help but look at it. So I photographed it.”

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Recently however this neglected district, the former home of the infamous Jewish Ghetto (created by the Nazis during German occupation of Krakow in WWII), is showing the first signs of becoming fashionable again with a number of hip bars sprouting up, some major building projects in development (not least the re-opening of Schindler’s Factory as a History Museum and Contemporary Art Museum) and plenty of artists taking up residence.

On this cold winter’s day, Podgorze’s rough edges, as well as its historic importance and distinctly neighbourhood charm are available for all to see – all sturdy enough to brave the minus 15 temperatures that is. If that doesn’t sound like you, you needn’t miss out. Earlier this year Keven Erickson and Krystyna Dul put on their thermal leggings and set out, despite the cold, to capture the unique Podgorze vibe on film…

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Contrary to popular opinion, Poland is not located in Siberia. Sure, it gets cold here in the winter, but, as a rule, the rivers do not freeze over. Especially not the Wisła (Vistula), Poland’s mighty artery which runs from the Beskids to the Baltic. So when, during one especially frosty week, I heard that the Wisła had frozen, I did what any dedicated photographer would do: I piled on seven sweaters, wrapped myself up in the thickest blanket I had and stayed at home, glued to the heater. Luckily, when the temperature finally crept up to endurable levels on the following weekend, the river was still frozen, so I grabbed my camera and a good pair of gloves and set out to document the big freeze.

When I first arrived at the Wisła’s banks and saw all of the avian wildlife in front of me, I must admit that I had a Holden Caulfieldesque moment; I had never seen so many swans in my life, much less in one place. I mean, where do they all go when the river’s not frozen? Surely Krakow, the city of a million pigeons, cannot have been hiding an army of swans this whole time? And why don’t the swans occupy the other bodies of water in the city?

Naturally, I asked my new companions these questions, and only received blank looks and divided attentions as soon as some old babcias showed up with bread. Upon realizing I was speaking to birds, I decided that the cold must be getting to my head, so it was soon back to the heater for me.

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