The Juice: Vilnius

editor — Fri, 04 Dec 2009 00:14:42 +0000

Skyscrapers and steeples, bonfires and Bohemians, ‘zepelins’ and Zappa… Thymn Chase discovers the city that the budget airlines overlooked.

Vilnius was founded by Grand Duke Gediminas in the 14th century supposedly after camping out in the hills above the bend in the river Neris and dreaming of an Iron Wolf (one of the better origins for a medieval city). A mere 700 years later, if Gediminas was to gaze down on his city he would see a gorgeous city wrought with character, a city which is looking to the future just as it builds on its long past.

Skyscraper skyline

North of the river has become synonymous with the new: skyscrapers reach towards the heavens, high rise apartments are stacking up and big Baltic business is beginning to boom. In the South it’s the sight of ancient steeples jutting into the air which reminds us that this is a city steeped in history and tradition. Ever since Gediminas laid the first stone, the old town, with its abundance of churches, has been the throbbing heart of the Vilnius. Not much has changed in that regard; the meandering cobbled streets bustle and buzz with students and twenty-somethings who bring this ancient city to life every day – and put it to bed every night. Besides being a big University town, Vilnius is increasingly attracting the young and upwardly mobile from all around Lithuania not to mention a steady influx of foreign investors, ex-pats and (yes, dear reader) tourists.

Despite being the lesser known of the three Baltic capitals (Riga and Tallinn being the others), Vilnius is by far the most welcoming, arguably the most beautiful and, befittingly, the hardest to get to. The relative difficulty of actually getting here has proven to be one of the city’s most precious qualities as it has been spared the onslaught of British stag dos and American fanny-packers that other Central and Eastern European cities have been flooded with in the last decade. Vilnius isn’t an obvious city and it won’t knock you out immediately, but it’s mysterious charm slowly draws you in. The capital encapsulates the carefree (and sometimes clumsy) innocence of an up-and-coming city that is growing, expanding and moving at an eccentric pace.

Best of the Beaten Track

One of Vilnius’ pet names is the City of a 100 Churches and undoubtedly one of the first things you’ll notice is the austere beauty and amazing diversity of these structures of religious worship. Like other cities on the Amber belt (not an actual clothing accessory), numerous nations have planted their flag and staked their claim to this city over the last 1,000 years or so.

A cold day on Cathedral Square

This sometimes volatile history is best represented by the diversity of churches. The place to start is the Gates of Dawn (aka the Sharp Gate) which doubles as both the southernmost gate to the old city (5 mins from train and bus stations) and the keeper of one of the most sacred religious icons in all of Europe. The icon in question is a painting of The Holy Virgin which was immortalized by Polish/Lithuanian (not necessarily in this order) poet Adam Mickiewicz (Adomas Bernardas Mickevičius in Lithuanian). The illustrious lady alone is worth taking a peak inside the Gate’s chapel.

The entire old town is jam-packed with churches. If it is in fact your bag to wander, gaze at and ponder beautiful religious monuments then you are, almost literally, in heaven… or at least on your way. Some must sees are The Church of Saint Peter and Paul (more the interior than the exterior), the Holy Spirit Russian Orthodox Church, St Anne’s and the Bernadine Church (which are both guarded by a modernist statue of old Adas himself) and finally the Main Cathedral and Belltower in the Cathedral Square.

St. Anna's photographed by Anna Spysz

The best way to take in the whole of the Vilnius cityscape is to climb the “Hill of Three Crosses” (must have taken them ages to come up with that one). The origins of the Three Crosses monument are somewhat controversial to say the least (if you ask around you’re likely to hear several tragic accounts), but this does not belie the fact that they safeguard the best panoramic view of all of Vilnius. If you are still wondering how many churches there actually are in this town, this spot is your best bet for steeple counting.

Hipster’s Guide

Vilnius is a small enough city that, as long as you can keep off the alus before noon, you can traverse most of the centre in a single day. One district however that you can easily overlook (but shouldn’t) is across the river Vilnia in the East part of town. Well, district is actually an insult as Užupis is in fact its own independent Republic, complete with its own passports, currency and even a constitution (in the running for most poignant ever).

Blue in the face

The first official act of the Republic was to build a statue to revered humanitarian and chin puppet enthusiast Frank Zappa (a random but worthwhile treasure hunt). Whether you or even locals take Užupis (and the endearingly insane artists that inhabit it) seriously is entirely besides the point. The best thing to do is just go with the flow and you’ll discover a funky bohemian district packed with eclectic bars, crunchy cafes, funky bistros, Berlinesque grafitti, surreal street art and an overall attitude that proclaims casual civil disobedience. The real irony is that since the rather radical Republic was founded in 1997, it has become increasingly popular among Vilnius’ jet-set yuppies and politicians (even the corrupt former mayor bought a place here, bless his black heart).

Experience & Events

Lithuania was officially the last Pagan country in Europe to be converted to Christianity, and as they say old habits die hard. There are several major festivals and countless traditions throughout the year that provide ample opportunity for one to get in touch with their inner cave man. The main event however is the Summer solstice, aka The Feast of Saint John (also known as Jonines or Rasos). There is a lot of tossing of wreaths into the Neris River and casting of spells and generally publicly-sanctioned debauchary. If you are fortunate enough to hook up with some locals heading out of town you may get to see some fire sculptures, jump a bonfire or two, hunt a midnight fern, douse a couple virgins and wash it all off with some morning dew! Fun for the whole family.

Vilnius welcomes Londoners for ECoC 2009

I would be remis if I didn’t inform you, dear reader, that at the time of this article’s publication, you have less than a month to high tail it to Vilnius to take part in the remaining days of the city’s tenure as European Capital of Culture 2009 (first in the Baltics, take that Tallinn and Riga!). There have been hundreds of events, concerts, workshops and excessive green decorations and pamphlets scattered all over Vilnius over the course of the year. Check the full schedule of remaining events here.

If you’re up for a great day trip to an idyllic medieval castle on a pastoral lake (and let’s face it, who isn’t) get thee to Trakai.

Pillow Talk

Like most cities, Vilnius has a variety of options for the sleep seeker. The best backpacker hostel by FAR is HostelGate – with the finest location in town and by far the best crew of locals and travel weathered receptionists (read: vagabonds) who will not only make sure your stay is comfortable but will personally ensure you enjoy your experience (possibly holding your head over the toilet if required). For your fast-talking entrepreneur-types that can’t easily go an hour without blue-toothing your iThingy and tweetering on your FaceSpace – E-Guesthouse is your place. Don’t let the guesthouse name fool you – this is actually a hip hotel that has more amenities than a lot of 5 stars can shake a stick at. If you and your wallet prefer a more bourgeois boudoir, then take up residency at Hotel Tilto just off Cathedral Square. They call themselves a boutique Irish Hotel and they offer elegant but cozy rooms complete with antique furniture and hardwood floors, sublime services and, as you might expect, a hearty restaurant and pub.

CLICK HERE

For more hotels in Vilnius

Fork Out

Much like their Polish, Belorussian and Latvian neighbors – Lithuanian food is heavy and hearty, earthy and girthy. The breadth and variety of potato dishes alone is truly staggering. We dare you to actually finish two ‘zepelins’ or cepelinai in Lithuanian (and yes these are indeed huge potato blimps stuffed with…?). And if you can get through a whole plate of vedarai (pig intestine stuffed with potato) you most likely have Lithuanian blood in your veins. To sample these delicacies and many more visit Zemaiciai. Lituanian food aside, Vilnius is filled with plenty of great other culinary options. Most recently there has been a trend for cozy niche Bistro’s with small but flexible menus such as Blusyne, Bobo, Mano Alibi, and In Vino (which also doubles as the hottest wine bar in town). If you are looking for something completely different make sure you dine at the surrealistic Belgian beer house Rene. Pan Asian Briusly and Zoe’s Grill are both worth a spin as well.

Drop In

Me? The 13th Duke of Wybourne, mixing mojitos at 5am in a bar in Vilnius... with my reputation?

If you haven’t gotten the impression yet, Vilnius is a quirky city with a subtle but incessant charm. The city really starts to shine however, when the sun goes down. Alcohol is a huge part of Lithuanian culture and indeed daily/nightly life. If you are a lover of beer (alus maximus) and spirits (triple nine, crazy vodkas and meads) then you are in luck/trouble (depending on how you look at it). For a small city, Vilnius has the bustling nightlife of a metropolis and you’ll be able to find whatever kind of nocturnal entertainment you may or may not be looking for. For starters, head to Cafe De Paris – which is the essential Vilnius pre-game destination. After 8 it is usually packed to the gills with local boho types getting into it. If you’re looking for something a bit more happening, check out the shapeshifting dance club/pan asian tapas bar Woo. It has everything from live jazz to electro & dubstep nights. Imbibe the vibe with great drinks and the best bar food this side of Bangkok. If you prefer a funky cocktail bar head to the jam-packed Mojitos Naktys and watch Tadas perform his cocktail acrobatics (…the best mojito I’ve ever slurped). If it’s a straight up meat market your looking for you can ply your trade while sipping watered-down overpriced drinks at Prospektos Pub. I could keep going deep into the night but the rest you’ll have to find out for yourself.

Getting There

As we mentioned before, Vilnius likes to play hard to get. As much as it pains me to write, there are currently NO cheap airlines connecting Vilnius to the rest of Europe (come on Ryanair, Kaunus… really?). Most Urban travelers heading to Vilnius these days come by Eurolines (or their evil Russian cousin Ecolines) bus from either Warsaw or Riga depending which direction they’re headed. And it may not be the most comfortable mode of transport… but… there are mythical Soviet train connections to Warsaw and Riga. I would stick with the bus. There has been talk of a high speed train (140 km+) that will eventually connect the Baltics with Warsaw but the crisis has set back the projected completion date to 2014. Check here for all the travel info you need.

More Juice

City Spy website has an interactive Vilnius map with extensive guide and recommendations. Print the map before you go. Vilnius Life is a great online portal for all things Vilnius with a strong focus on nightlife options and reviews. The Vilnius Official Site is a nuts and bolts portal with all the general what, where, when, and how’s.

Hard Copy

Naked Vilnius is a great alternative guide to Vilnius published by some local artists that really want you to get to know the real city and meet the real people that make it tick. It’s a fascinating read and is absolute eye candy. Do what you can to get ahold of a copy. Few people know that the reliable city guides In Your Pocket.com actually started off in Vilnius. The bi-monthly print guide stays up to date about all the new openings and candidly shares their sometimes condemning and always irreverent reviews.

Soundtrack to the City

No Front Teeth – Metal on Metal – Progressive electro, house and rock fusion
Stargazing – Flamingo – Up-and-coming original indie rock band.
Bango Collective – Homeless gypsy balkan freak dub from the Vilnius slums…!!!!
Old Dudes singin’ folk songs - Pretty much…

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The Juice: Vilnius