Urban Travel Blog » Prague

Top Five: Prague Microbreweries

editor — Mon, 13 Dec 2010 19:27:14 +0000

The birthplace of several world-famous beer brands, the Czech Republic, led by its capital, is also one of the best places for sampling home-made brews. Fiona Gaze hops onto a tour of the five best microbreweries in Prague.

When thinking of beer in Prague, Pilsner Urquell automatically springs to most people’s minds. While Plzeň’s ubiquitous export is certainly a national treasure for the country ranked #1 in terms of beer per-capita consumption, local specialty microbrews are produced all over the Czech Republic. The capital in particular is the perfect place to hunt down interesting suds that confidently cater to the expanding market for niche beers, and some microbreweries in the city centre have being pouring for centuries. Sipping on the finest unique pivo the city has to offer is certainly a refreshing pastime, whether you’re an avid beer lover looking for a new thrill or an adventurer seeking a true taste of Prague. Here are five microbreweries to try out, all within easy stumbling distance of Prague’s main attractions. It’s worth making reservations before you go, though, as these pubs are just as popular with the locals as with visitors.

Klašterní Pivovar

Prague's Holy Grail

At the Strahov Monastery, a beautiful Baroque complex close to Prague Castle worth visiting in itself, hoppiness is close to godliness. Brewing here dates back to the turn of the 14th century, and the result is three solid unfiltered varieties of its St. Norbert beer available year-round. The St. Norbert IPA (64 Kč per 0.4 L) is a top-fermented British-influenced Indian Pale Ale, brewed with Czech ingredients and two types of American hops (Amarillo and Cascade). The result is pleasantly bitter, light and hoppy. The amber (59 Kč) is a bottom-fermented all-malt ale inspired by Viennese lagers and the Bavarian Märzan. Extra-cold and refreshing. The dark lager (59 Kč) is brewed based on a recipe from Munich dating to the first half of the 19th century, and has a rich, chocolately taste with a clear finish.

Strahov Monastic Brewery
Strahovské nádvoří 301
Prague 1–Hradčany
Tel. +420 233 353 155
Klasterni-pivovar.cz

Novoměstský Pivovar

Vat's enough beer for you Pavel!

Ignoring the kitschy faux-hops dangling from the ceilings and tacky murals isn’t hard at the New Town Brewery thanks to the venue’s attention-grabbing svelté, or light, lager. The cloudy, unfiltered beer at this central brewhouse, founded in 1993, has hints of lemon and a yeasty drinkability, with no added preservatives, and at 38 Kč per half-litre has a price that goes down just as easily. There is also a dark version on offer, as well as novelty flavoured beers, including banana, which are only available in a four-set tasting menu (for 200 Kč). For those up for the task of tackling — or sharing — a substantial meal, try the famous pork knuckle here, served on a massive board with shredded horseradish and mustard, perfect for soaking up the liquid appetizers.

Novoměstský pivovar
Vodičkova 20,
Prague 1–New Town
Tel. +420 222 232 448
Npivovar.cz

Pivovarský Dům

It'll cure whatever ales you

The “Brewers’ House” opened in 1998, and has probably not seen an empty table since. Locals and tourists cram onto the wooden tables here to sample the excellent beer as well as the reasonably priced fare. Pivovarsky Dum is known especially for its experimentations with beer, such as adding cherry, chili, coffee or nettle flavourings (not all together, of course), as well as beer champagne and beer aperitifs. The pale lager though shines just as much, as do the dark, wheat and mixed (half-and-half pale and dark) varieties. Nearly all beers are 40 Kč per glass, although some come in larger glasses than others. Most are also available for super-sizing, to the towering 4-litre “Giraffe” which is brought tableside and from which guests draw their own pints. The beers are also eight for the price of seven when ordered this way.

Pivovarský dům
Ječná/Lípová 15
Prague 2–New Town
Tel. +420 296 216 666
Gastroinfo.cz/pivodum

U Fleků

It's always beer o'clock in U Fleku

If you can beat the tourist mobs to a seat at one of U Fleku’s long, beer-hall tables, hold on to it. The boisterous and smoky atmosphere (or, in warmer months, the expansive beer garden out back) is completed by folk-costumed accordion players and lightning servers who pass around 0.4 litre mugs of the microbrewery’s namesake dark lager (59 Kč), a delicious, chocolately brew with strong cameral notes. Waiters also push trays of Becherovka, a herbal liquor from Karlovy Vary, under patrons’ noses, professing as “anti-freeze” what is actually a pleasant, warming shot strongly evocative of Christmas. U Fleku dates back to the 15th century and is the only brewery in Central Europe to brew beers for 500 years straight. The iconic clock, whose numbers are replaced by the name “Pivovar U Fleků” beckons people in off the street.

U Fleků
Křemencova 11
Prague 1–New Town
Tel. +420 224 934 019
Ufleku.cz

U Medvídků

Located centrally between Wenceslas Square and the National Theater, “At the Bears” boasts one of the strongest beers in the world, its specialty, X33, which has a 12.6% alcohol content. Arched ceilings and long, wooden tables line the labyrinth of rooms of U Medvídků, which dates to 1466. The microbrewery’s main beer is Old Gott, an unfiltered, amber lager (50 Kč for 0.33 L), a smooth sipper, as well as several other varieties. U Medvídků is also known for its impressive menu of Czech food, where one can sample the traditional svičkova or goulash.

U Medvídků
Na Perštýně 7
Prague 1–Old Town
Tel. +420 224 211 916
Umedvidku.cz

The Juice: Prague

editor — Mon, 05 Apr 2010 17:32:18 +0000

Touristy but true to its character, Prague delights visitors with its fairytale architecture and surprises them with its oddball treasures. Hannah Carr guides us through the Czech capital.

Prague is often dubbed “the city of 100 spires”. Whilst we don’t recommend taking the trouble to count them, what you and every first-time visitor will see – no effort required – is the the city’s architectural splendour. Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque churches, town halls and towers clamour for the attention of your camera lens in the picture perfect Old Town, whilst, silently surveying the entire of Prague, the city castle sits across the Vltava on its lofty hill.

Overlooking the Old Town

Following generations of foreign domination, Nazi occupation and Communist rule, perhaps it’s no surprise that – after the Iron Curtain finally cracked in the early 1990s – Prague was the first of the Central and East European countries to successfully embrace the West and the sparkling allure of the free market. And whilst coach parties, drunk Brits, tacky tourist shops and M&S became an unfortunate side affect of the city’s new Westernised identity, overall Prague has stubbornly maintained its character. Interspersed with the city’s more commercial side you’ll still find numerous antique shops, vintage boutiques and shops selling the famous Bohemian glass, whilst sales of vepřo-knedlo-zelo (pork and dumplings) and delicious honey cake still outnumber sales of Big Macs.

The city’s astonishing prettiness can make Prague resemble a toy town at times, but you don’t have to travel far off the track to experience local life in the living. For example in Letna Park skaters practice tricks, racing and shouting at each other, without a care in the world. This was the very spot where once stood a fearsome statue of Stalin, but now weeds have made their home and what remains of the base is obscured by tangles of grass and graffiti.

Best of the Beaten Track

Whether you visit Old Town Square at dawn, dusk or any hour in between, you can’t fail to be impressed by its pristine beauty. Some come to see the famed Astronomical Clock, others the Jan Hus Memorial and many Týn Cathedral with its iconic towers. Few go home disappointed.

Better by moonlight!

Nearby Charles Bridge also deserves the hype surrounding it, but avoid visiting it in the day when crowds of excitable tourists make it difficult to see the statues that line the North and South sides – or to move. Instead visit on a cloudless night, when the crowds have dispersed and the moonlight illuminates the bridge and casts an eerie light over these noble effigies. At this hour you can touch the statue of the martyred St. John of Nepomuk to ensure you return to Prague, and take a look at the Czech capital while it’s semi-sleepy.

From the Charles Bridge it’s a seemingly vertical stroll to the castle, through Malá Strana and up a lot of steps. But it’s definitely worth sweating for. You can get a panoramic view of the city from above, before exploring this Gothic heavyweight and the nearby cathedral. Also on the top of the hill there’s a an entertaining Toy Museum (the second largest in the world) which includes an army of Barbies from 1959 onwards.

Whilst in Prague you can’t ignore the elephant in the room: the Museum of Communism is located on Na Příkopě 10, just off Wenceslas Square, above McDonald’s and close to a casino, which wouldn’t please Lenin. Today communism in the Czech capital seems as popular amongst residents as the Soviet tanks that enforced it, yet the guest book reveals that the museum attracts both critics and sympathisers of the regime.

Hipster’s Guide

Pop star lives on in Prague

The John Lennon Peace Wall is a bit of a mission to find in the winding streets of Malá Strana, but you’ll be glad of the effort when you get there, if only for the photo opportunity. It became an artistic canvas to commemorate the late Beatle, and was later scrawled on as a sign of protest against the communist regime in the 1980s. It has carried messages of peace ever since, and has been visited by Lennon’s leading lady, Yoko Ono. Don’t forget to take a pen. And a camera.

If you want to escape the city – and have a fascination with all that is morbid – take a trip to the Sedlec Ossuary in Kutna Hora. If you think churches tend to be dull, this one will certainly change your mind. Unlike the average parish prayer house, the shrine is decorated with the bones of the dead from the Hussite Wars and plague victims. The centrepiece is a huge chandelier made from every bone in the human body several times over.

Experiences and events

I don't drink. I'm a tee-toddler

Prague has loads of activities on offer during the summer and, unlike many UK festivals, you won’t be plagued by wind, rain and mud. There’s the Prague Fringe Festival, which imitates its Edinburgh sister in June, and the Czech Beer Festival (one of Urban Travel Blog’s top festivals for 2010!) and Dance Prague in May. If you get your kicks from the silver screen, head to the city in January when the Prague Short Film Festival is on. You can even apply to enter your own. If you’re more interested in putting pen to paper, go in early June for the twentieth Prague Writers’ Festival. There’s also the Prague Food Festival, if you’re voyaging for victuals.

The more active might prefer to try their hand at Aquazorbing at the Aquapalace. It involves rolling around a swimming pool in a giant ball, which will make a good pub story when you get back home. The freezing winters also make skiing an potential activity. Head to the Jizerské Hory range, an hour’s drive from Prague, when the snow settles.

Pillow Talk

Many tourists come to Prague for the women

If you want your holiday with a side helping of servants, try The Golden Well Hotel, where you can have your luggage unpacked and your aromatic oil bath run for you, as well as an in-room massage. Guests also have access to Holy Roman Emperor Rudolf II’s private entrance into the castle gardens. If only home was this good! If your love of history extends to the boudoir, try the Sax Hotel. The 14th century building has rooms decorated in fifties, sixties and seventies themes. Choose your favourite decade and step in! For a more wallet friendly stay head to Hotel Clementin, which is noticeable for being housed in Prague’s narrowest building. For a high class hostel try Miss Sophie’s with its designer dorms. It’s chic but still cheap. Alternatively choose Prague apartments for your holidays.

Fork out

Czech food is a tempting mix of the meaty and the carb-laden, but not very vegetarian friendly! For authentic Czech fare head to Botel Admiral, an old boat moored on the banks of the Vltava. Try the delicious old-Bohemian-style roast goose. It’s a guaranteed foodgasm, as is the fare at U Pinkasů. Established in 1843, it was the first place to serve Pilsner, and still prides itself on its wide range of brews. And don’t miss the Czech honey cake. Vegetarians may find it more of a mission to find good food in Prague, but definitely not impossible. Maitrea is a vegetarian joint lovingly designed with feng shui principles in mind. The restaurant, with its soothing fountains and cream decor, envelops you in a sense of calm. And importantly the food will leave you wanting a second portion, too.

Drop in

Just an ordinary night at Cross Club...

When darkness falls Prague becomes a more flamboyant, hedonistic version of its daytime self, particularly in New Town and Old Town. For pre-drinks try Harley’s Bar. It’s as garish as a neon light in a library, but the atmosphere is always buzzing and the happy (three) hours are cheap. Cocktail freaks should hit Bugsy’s Bar, where 200 varieties are on offer, including the Long Breakfast Belevedere, intriguingly mixed with marmalade. While you’re here take a look at the paraphernalia on display – there’s a 1795 bottle of Madeira roasted wine, a Morris Hennessy signed bottle and the world’s tiniest mixer set. For something a bit twisted try the Cross Club, which is filled with works by local artists, strange inventions and kaleidoscopic lighting. It’ll make you feel like you’re tripping before you even are. The locals and students milling around also make it feel more authentic than other clubs.

Getting There

You can fly cheaply to Prague with low cost airlines easyJet, Jet2 and Ryanair, from a variety of UK and Irish cities, such as London, Edinburgh and Dublin. If money’s more plentiful you can choose from British Airways, Czech Airlines, or KLM. From continental Europe you can travel cheaply by bus or train, with the overnighter to Krakow a staple on the backpacker route.

More Juice

The Czech Tourism website which offers a comprehensive – albeit sanitised – guide to Prague. For the unofficial stamp of approval take a look at Empty Nest Expat, an expat American’s blog on life in the Czech capital. For hip tips and local secrets look no further than Spotted by Locals Prague blog.

Hard Copy

Before you go, dip into The Visible World by Mark Slouka, which reawakens wartime Czechslovakia and the Nazi occupation. For a guide of what to see and do in Prague pick up a copy of Artel Style by Karen Feldman, a visual treat written by an expat who made her home in the city. It’s full of tips on where to play, eat, and sleep, as well as including more useful information, such as common Czech phrases, metro and tram maps. Of course no serious Bohemian heading to the homeland would forget to pack a little light reading by Kafka or Kundera.

Soundtrack to the City

Druha Trava – Ja Pisnicka
Forgotten Silence – The Sunflames
Khoiba – Not As It Seems
Ticha Dohoda – Vitr
Wohnout – Ganga

View Prague City Break in a larger map

Ex Tourism: Jetting Out of Dumpsville…

editor — Sun, 28 Feb 2010 21:16:07 +0000

Valentine’s breaks, romantic getaways and honeymoons: love has often inspired us to travel but – thanks to the turbulent lives of tacky celebs – we’ve recently seen how the end of a relationship is in fact the best time to get away from it all… Urban Travel Blog explores travel therapy for the broken-hearted.

It was Toni Terry who started the trend earlier this month, jetting off to Dubai for some winter sun after ‘revelations’ that her husband, Chelsea captain John Terry, had being doing the dirty with a lingerie model behind her back. Everyone knows that footballers’ wives are slaves to new crazes, so perhaps it was no surprise that WAG Queen, Cheryl Cole, jumped behind the reins of the bandwagon and urged it on at full pace to Los Angeles, after it transpired that her own beloved beau, Ashley (…also of Chelsea FC), had been sending saucy pics of his top striker to a rival chavette. Who would have thought it?

Although the public at large might enjoy a laugh at the predictable messes that these material girls get themselves in for with their no-good but filthy rich husbands, the truth is we’ve all picked a wrong ‘un down the line – and usually discovered our mistakes the hard way. And whilst we don’t want to give too much credit to Cheryl and co., their idea of dealing with heartbreak via a holiday has got to be their greatest contribution to society they’ve made thus far (except for maybe this video). So to celebrate the unlikely occasion of WAGs starting a new travel trend Urban Travel Blog have decided to come up with their own list of great getaways for all the jilted Romeos and Juliets out there. From the self-indulgent to the spiritual, with plenty of single shenanigans in between, here are our seven best holidays for getting over your ex-boyfriend or girlfriend… they’re almost worth getting dumped for.

Self Love Island

A spa on Hvar: the holiday the boyfriend can't spoil

No, not that type of self love (…although it can’t hurt). In this instance we mean take the chance to treat yourself how your ex should have been treating you, if they weren’t too busy making whoopy with their new colleague from work. Now is the time to book yourself a single room at the Spalmaris Spa resort in Hotel Podstine on the almost Arcadian island of Hvar in Croatia. When you’re not busy getting rubbed down by some Slavic sexpot or getting the princess treatment with a Mediterranean Royal Pedicure, you can always rub bronzed shoulders with Europe’s yachting elite in Hvar harbor. Where better to be revitalized and single?

Retail Remedy in Rome

Expensive? Frankly my dear...

Spending money on yourself is a good way of reaffirming your self worth in the face of your unceremonious jilting. Especially if it’s with your partner’s credit card, or you’re draining the joint account. Why not head to Rome for a splurging spree – it may not have quite the associations with fashion as Milan does, but you’ll find all the same designer names, plus amazing markets such as Porta Portese and Campo de Fiori. Guys should remember not to use up all your ex’s credit on the first day… after all you’ll want to save a fair few euros for buying champagne for the sultry Italian of your dreams at Bloom club. Whilst girls would be well-advised to die their hair blond and wander around with a map in their hand looking helplessly lost (and single) … the dark handsome strangers will be lining up to whisk you away in their Vespas.

Mead in Manhattan

There’s nothing like a good drinking session to get over an ex… or at least numb the pain for a few blessed beer-soaked hours. If mead is your favourite medicine then ‘hop’ on a plane to New York and sign up for a tour of the Chelsea Brewery, one of the few still operating in Manhattan. Meet Market Adventures organize single tours of this sacred site, giving you an alcohol-fuelled chance of continuing the fun long after last orders has been called on your quest for the Holy Ale.

Photo Therapy

Prague's breath-taking scenery cures all ills

What you need in a time of emotional crisis is – pun intended – something to focus on. If that thing happens to be a stunning Czech model so much the better. Sign up for a week learning the art of photography with Aclass and not only will you pit your lenses against the amazing architecture of Prague and Brno – two of Europe’s most beautiful cities – but you’ll also learn how to direct a fashion shoot with a Pantene model and Miss Czech finalist, amongst other good lookers! Alternatively, for a one-day experience that will get your shutters in a flutter why not try your hand at photo dating in London?

Art Break City

…a much healthier destination than Heartbreak City for the spurned singleton is balmy Barcelona. Pack your paintbrushes and head over to the Catalan capital where Swiss-born art therapist Cora Egger will teach you how to easel the pain away in her specially-designed LOM studio. According to her studies (and she holds several diplomas in the field) painting can be a very effective tool for externalizing all manner of traumas and drawing a portrait of your ex (presumably so that you can savage it afterwards) can prove surprisingly beneficial. If it doesn’t work then there’s always Barcelona’s sunny beaches, raucous nightlife and plenty of cheap Cava to fall back on…

A Drop In The Ocean

Ex-girlfriend equals ex-problems

Nothing will seem more insignificant than your ex when you’ll battling the might of Atlantic ocean armed with only a 2m piece of plastic. Enrol at the Berbere surf camp in Morocco and not only can you spend every day receiving expert tuition at arguably the world’s most sexy sport, but you’ll be surrounded by amazing scenery and the local customs of the indigenous Berbere people. And if you don’t fall in love with Mother Nature and the ocean, then there’s always those superfit surfing instructors to sidle up to.

Medicinal Meditation

If you need a complete a mental rehab, how about locking yourself up in a Thai monastery – for a minimum of 10 days – where orange-clad monks will half starve you to death whilst encouraging you to achieve 8 or 9 hours of meditation per day? Just outside Chiang mai, the 15th Century shrine of Wat Rampoeng offers meditation lessons along with a set of rules that makes Her Majesty’s guests at Whitemoor seem privileged, on your painful path to enlightenment. If that particular brand of catharsis doesn’t sound like your cup of tea then you could opt for the opposite Thai treatment… Bangkok’s finest ladyboys are just down the road.

So that just about covers our vacations and travel breaks for the broken hearted. The next time you find yourself in Dumpsville, don’t mope about on the sofa; take some time off work and jump on the ex tourism trend. New environment, new skills, new people… being single could be the best thing that ever happened to you. And you never know, some time away might from home might just have the ex begging to get back with you… especially if he’s a pathetic weasel like John Terry. Just say no Toni!