When I set off a fortnight ago for the San Fermin festival in Pamplona, with its infamous running of the bulls ritual, I had absolutely no intention of joining the deadly daily footrace with the horned beasts. Maybe it was the excitement of the fiesta, possibly it was the alcohol, or maybe it was manly pride after two friends of mine took their chances – and survived, but by my second day in the city I began to be swayed.

“It’s not dangerous at all. I didn’t even see a bull until I was in the stadium,” one friend nonchalantly assured me.

Stocking up on sangria

For those who are unfamiliar with the specifics, the controversial ritual involves the release of 6 fighting bulls, plus 9 steers from the Santa Domingo corral, which then run at full pelt down an 826m stretch of streets into the Pamplona arena on the other side of town. At 8am every morning, from the 7th to 14th July each year, a firecracker announces the release of the herd and a melee ensues as man and beast run pell-mell together towards the bull ring. Later, in the same arena, the bulls will be put to the sword by sharply-suited matadors in traditional Spanish bull fights; but during the chaotic few minutes of the early morning Death’s sickle hovers over man alone, and 25 have been killed since 1925 – the last in 2009 – whilst hundreds are injured every year, albeit more from falling over or being trampled on/crushed than by actual gorings.

One of the things of course that makes the event so dangerous is that it takes place at the end of a marathon all-night (and often all-day) drinking session. The entire town, swollen by hundreds of thousands from elsewhere in Spain and abroad – all dressed in traditional white garments with red sash and handkerchief – is consumed by a party atmosphere day and night. Most waste little time in between recovering from the night before and hitting the booze again (the drink of choice being Calimocho, red wine mixed with Coca Cola) and revellers typically continue until 5 or 6am when the bars and clubs close and the jostling for position starts for the running of the bulls itself. The prudent clamber on top of the safety gates or pay locals for a spot on their balconies for a prime view of the stampede, whilst the brave/stupid/drunk gather on the actual route and endure a nerve jangling hour or two waiting for the 8am firecracker.

Bystander's view of the final stretch

After enduring a cold 90 minutes peering through the gap in a fence on Friday night for what turned out to be a rubbish view of little more than a rush of bodies and a horn-topped blur of brown hide – and then listening to my friends’ caws about how easy the run had been – I was determined to experience the ritual first hand on Saturday. I was confident that, being fleet of foot, I could avoid any real danger and gleefully update my Facebook status from somewhere other than a hospital bed. However as I walked backwards, with three determined friends, from the arena side of the route right to the start line I soon began to have serious misgivings.

The relatively open space at the end of the course (where I had watched the night before) comes at the end of a long and narrow snaking route which offers almost nothing in the way of cover except for an odd doorway and indented shop front… and even at 6.30am people were preemptively taking cover in these shallow, and unreassuring, havens. The gates that block off each of the street junctions are just about scaleable, but I knew that these would be packed with eager onlookers, making an emergency exit over the top nigh on impossible. What’s more it had rained that night and the cobbles of Pamplona were discomfortingly slippery. I started to imagine plausible scenarios, such as losing my footing at the wrong moment, a drunkard losing their footing and pushing me into the path of an onrushing bull, or even a bull losing its footing and crushing me with its vast bulk as it skidded into a shop facade.

Relaxed atmosphere before the run

“Just remember to stay down if you fall over and you’ll be all right,” an experienced runner from England told me. “Better to be trampled than gored.”

Not exactly the reassuring words I was looking for at 7.15 in the morning, with my life on the line. Equally unhelpful was the advice “whatever you do, don’t get caught at Dead Man’s Corner when the bulls run by.” Possibly through raw fear, or possibly thanks to the equally raw roadside bacon burger I had inadvisedly snacked on an hour earlier, I felt the urgent need to throw up. I also felt a pressing need to be away from the madness. There was a general air of calm and normality on the start line that was completely, and insanely, at odds with the risks. A young Australian girl, who looked far from athletic, started joking with me, but I wasn’t in the mood. This is plain fucking stupid, I thought. Hugging each of my friends in turn, I wished them luck and then breathed a huge sigh of relief as I stepped between the wooden gates and off the course. (Complete relief came 30 mins later when I regurgitated the aforementioned burger in the bus station toilets).

The party on the street lasts all night...

The resulting calm and well-being of eliminating a potentially deadly, and completely unnecessary risk, from my immediate future was of course strongly laced with regret. Regret that I’d missed out on a rare experience, regret that I couldn’t share the camaraderie of having run with my friends, and regret – perhaps most of all – that my stories from Pamplona could never be as good as those who’d experienced their three minute dice with death. The stupid idiots.

On the bus back to Barcelona I ran into my only other friend who hadn’t run. He was nonplussed about missing out, wheeling out a quote by David Foster Wallace to make his point: “I think the world divides neatly into those excited by the managed induction of terror and those who are not. I do not find terror exciting. I find it terrifying.”

...although some may need to take a break

The six hour journey back to BCN certainly gave me plenty of time to think about the relationship the human race has between excitement and fear, and the different way people feel it. Some undoubtedly are addicted to the risks of high adrenaline pursuits such as free-falling, cliff diving, or off-piste skiing. Others, like myself – whose imaginations won’t allow them to disregard the consequences of what could go wrong – are likely to shy away from such leg-breaking activities, but almost certainly engage danger in more subtle forms, such as gambling with money, emotions or life decisions. It might sound like a Point Break-style cliché but without at least some danger, some risks, life really would be incredibly boring.

As today’s society becomes increasingly health and safety obsessed it would have been a high-thrills kick in the teeth to common sense and the mundane to have taken part in the running of the bulls… but it could have easily been a horn in the ribs as well. The quandary is you can’t do one, without risking the other.

Valencia bakes in the sun by day, smells of oranges at night and burns entirely once a year, during the world-renowned Las Fallas Festival, the city’s most important holiday – when the noise of fireworks and the stink of gunpowder fills the air for several sleepless nights in March.

Monsters walk the streets every March

Valencia, the third biggest city of Spain, is sometimes perceived as the “ugly sister” of Madrid and Barcelona. A grossly inaccurate comparison, but one at least that has helped it stave off the invading crowds who prefer to visit her aforementioned siblings. In fact Valencia is undeniably picturesque, the wriggling streets of its Old Town betraying both Roman and Arabian influences and punctuated with meticulously maintained orange gardens and open squares full of outdoor cafes that bustle until 3am. Girding the Old Town is the dried bed of the river Turia, a beautiful green belt of attractions including the amazing Bioparc immersion zoo and La Ciudad de las Artes y Las Ciencias. The latter is one of Valencia’s most recognisable symbols, a futuristic white city designed by avant garde local architect, Santiago Calatrava.

If that wasn’t enough, the city’s never-failing weather (with an average of 15 degrees on Christmas Day!) and long stretch of Mediterranean beaches make Valencia even easier to fall in love with.

Best of the Beaten Track

Valencia’s heart remains in its medieval Old Town, and the best spot to start any walk is at its central point, the huge gothic Cathedral of Our Lady (you can find it located between two cosy, medieval squares: La Plaza de la Reina and La Plaza de la Virgen). Remarkably the Cathedral holds the very chalice which many historians believe to be the true Holy Grail (someone really should have told Indiana Jones), and after you’ve paid your homage you can enjoy some of the best views in the city by climbing the Cathedral’s highest tower, El Micalet. Casting an eye over the medieval architecture of the Old Town it doesn’t take much imagination to picture the city’s greatest hero, the Moor-fighting knight El Cid Campeador, being hoisted triumphantly through the city streets.

Take a walk in the Old Town

From La Plaza de la Virgen it’s good to take a slow stroll down Knights’ Street (Calle de los Caballeros). Here’s where the famous El Carmen quarter starts. Strolling down the narrow streets, crossing La Plaza del Negrito and heading South, you will reach the stone building of La Lonja de Seda: the old silk market and one of the greatest examples of lay architecture from medieval Europe. In front of La Lonja you can see the huge art nouveau Mercado Central building, one of the largest indoor markets in Spain. Fresh seafood is delivered here every single day, although nota bene: the city’s speciality, paella valenciana, doesn’t in fact contain any seafood whatsoever – originating from the nearby marshes true paella consists of rice, saffron, garlic, chicken and rabbit. Entire rabbits with no skin and plucked roosters’ heads make some of the market’s stands look quite spooky.

For a true Spanish experience the strong-stomached might want to catch a bull fight at La Plaza de Toros, the second biggest bull ring in Spain (after Madrid), located next to La Plaza del Ayuntamiento and the Main Train Station (Estación del Norte).

Hipster’s Guide

Streetwise in El Carmen

Surprisingly, El Carmen, Valencia’s most famous district, has managed to retain its authentic feel, despite its location in the centre of the Old Town and being a firm favourite on the tourist track. The district is renowned for its quirky look and late opening hours of its tiny bars, whilst the liberal vibe has also made it a Mecca for hippies. Two of the best spots to start a Valencian night out are on La Plaza del Negrito and Baja Street; but if you really want to escape fellow foreigners head to the surroundings of Ruzafa Street instead. Here inconspicuous bars, scenic squares and gardens excude a chilled-out atmosphere and you can often find live music by street musicians. One recommended place is Cafe Ubik, a small bookshop-cafe where you can pop in to have breakfast or start to your day with a glass of red wine (yup, Spaniards do it!), meet up with friends or just swap some second-hand books.

Experience & Events

It would be a sin not to take advantage of the amazing weather conditions that the city has to offer. No wonder that most of the Valencian’s favourite activities take place outdoors. A bike ride along the dried out river Turia is a perfect way to see the best of the green side of the city. Colourful cascades of flowers, exotic trees and fountains line the route eastwards to the final destination of Santiago Calatrava’s La Ciudad de las Artes y Las Ciencias. At the far west end of the old Turia river’s bed, el Parque de la Cabecera is located. Nevermind the distance, because once you’re there, you will feel as if you were five again by taking a ride across the lake in a kitsch swan-shaped gondola.

Over the top? Never...

They say that every Valencia citizen is a fire freak, and this theory is certainly borne out by the city’s most important fiesta, the insane Las Fallas festival. Even though the festival itself lasts only around a week the preparations take place all year, so that, by the middle of March, the city is ready to turn into one vast, extremely noisy, street party. Every important square is adorned with its own Falla, a huge statue made of wood and plastic, often related to current political or social events. Between 15th and 19th of March no one works, children throw firecrackers in parks and public places, the streets are cut off from regular traffic and kiosks selling doughnuts and sweets appear all around the city. Some of the locals escape out of town, while others prepare for the upcoming sleepless nights, as the bars are allowed to stay open until 6am each morning. During the last night of Las Fallas, “la Nit de Foc”, the entire city burns as all the figures are set on fire at the same time. Only the winning statue is spared, and preserved in the Las Fallas Museum to be admired for all antiquity. Arguably the most impressive aspect of the festival is the impeccable state of the streets the very next day. Clean and empty, they confuse the visitor by giving the impression nothing happened at all and you just woke up after some crazy dream…

More festival madness takes place on the last Wednesday of August every year, just outside Valencia, in the village of Bunol, in the form of the world’s most famous food fight – La Tomatina. Armageddon with tomatoes.

Pillow Talk

Home Backpackers is located in the very centre of El Carmen district and, with its big kitchen and common room, is the perfect spot to make new friends and meet fellow backpackers. The only annoying thing is the lack of elevator (the building is 4-floor high), but in the end who cares when a huge sunny terrace greets you at the top of the roof? If you’re looking for a more intimate atmopshere you can go for Home Youth Hostel or Rooms Deluxe Hostel which offer nicely-designed customised private apartments and small shared rooms, instead of bunk beds and crowded dormitories. For the most demanding and sophisticated visitors, there’s nothing like the luxurious, Las Arenas Hotel, located at Malvarrosa beach. The hotel has become famous for its impressive gardens, terraces and almost one century old spa and swimming pool complex.

Fork Out

The Spanish equivalent of afternoon tea

The Spanish love food and the day’s rhythym is ruled by their eating schedule. A morning coffee with a sweet snack for breakfast, a solid bocadillo (baguette with plenty of yummy things inside) for lunch, then around 4pm (after their sacred siesta at 2pm) it’s time for delicious chocolate con churros (hot chocolate with a variety of a doughnut); and then finally a late, long and rather lazy dinner (most restaurants don’t open before 8pm) in the evening. Tapas is of course the famous food of Spain, and these small dishes can be served en masse as dinner or more often simply as snacks with beer. The best places for tapas in Valencia is La Tapeta del Carme (Calle Los Borja 4). The prices are very reasonable, the food is home-made and always fresh and the number of fully-booked tables tells its own story. Wednesday is the discount day at 100 Montaditos, another tapas bar (a bit more touristic, though), located at Plaza de la Reina. People start to queue for a table at 4-5pm, as you get any type of tapas you like for just one 1 euro (plus beer for the same price!). On the other side of the Square, La Taberna de la Reina offers an alternative way of having tapas. Pieces of bread with toppings of all kinds are displayed on the bar, skewered on cocktail sticks: you pick up the ones you like and pay once you’re done, counting the number of sticks left on your plate. If you’re searching for a more upmarket dining experience, the chic but friendly Ness restaurant is highly recommended, with Valencia-based, fusion cuisine at its best.

Drop In

Mojitos at Malvarrosa

The motto of Valencia people, “vivir sin dormir” leaves you in no doubt of their life outlook. The bars are open all day long and they are followed by the clubs, which open around 2am and don’t close until the break of dawn. The party style has changed over the decades though. In the early 90s, La Ruta de Bacalao (suburban, beach disco houses, offering a great deal of drugs mixed with techno and rave tunes) echoed all around Spain. Those days are gone. Today, in summertime, all the bars along Malvarrosa beach throng with people, often still partying when the first rays of sun creep over the horizon. Las Animas Puerto is the best spot on the strip with great views from its numerous terraces, although sadly the music is a weak point. Outside summer the party is yet more raucous, partly because Valencia is the second biggest city in Europe when it comes to number of foreign exchange students (after Barcelona). The student club zone is Polo y Peyrolon Street and around here even a mid-week night can turn into a never-ending fiesta. For some alternative music seekers, Picaddilly Downtown club can be recommended. Previously a brothel, today it is a hidden club of the old town with some good indie rock music on. Located on Quart Street, Venial is a gay club that offers one of the best parties in town. On the same street a good electro spot can be found: 47 Social Club.

Getting There

The local airport Valencia-Manises is located just outside the city and it has been recently connected to a new, quick and comfortable suburban metro line, and now it takes only 20 minutes to get there for the price of 1,70 EUR. The airport offers cheap flights (Ryanair, EasyJet, Vueling) to most of the mayor cities of Spain and Europe (London, Milan, Paris, Oslo, Dublin, Rome, etc.) and regular airlines, such as Spanair or Iberia, that fly also outside Europe. The local train service is very reliable, yet the coaches tend to be cheaper. The coaches are the best way to visit the nearby cities, such as Alicante, for example. It takes about 5 hours to travel to Barcelona by train, and just 3,5 hour to get to Madrid by bus.

More Juice

Probably the best two sources of Valencia info online are Hola Valencia and Extra Valencia, whilst needless to say the bigs guns like Lonely Planet publish their content online.

Hard Copy

Published in 2010, the LP Valencia Encounter is a reliable companion for any rucksack or just-small-enough-to-count-as-hand-luggage trolley case. Valencia’s most famous son Vicente Blasco Ibanez is one of the most talented authors to put pen to paper, and his WWI epic The Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse will be worth its weight in gold, while Blood and Sand is surely the best novel ever written about the art of bullfighting. Finally the first novel written in Spain was penned and published in Valencia – check out Tirant The White, for the kind of chivalrous romp which Cervantes went on to parody.

If there’s one thing Madrid won’t tolerate, it’s being second best. Situated in the heart of the country, the city prides itself on being the pinnacle of Spanish culture, art and style. Madrid’s buzzing atmosphere, diverse cultural events and resplendent architecture – even the Post Office building is a work of art here – more than justify its status as Spain’s capital. Yet this beautiful, land-locked city is often shunned in favour of Barcelona’s coastal charms.

Gay parade on Madrid

But Madrid isn’t the kind of city to take this lying down. In true Spanish defiance, Madrid has refused to pander to the mainstream tourist trail and instead celebrates its understated, authentic atmosphere. From its glorious Art Deco buildings, such as the Edificio Metropolis, to its picturesque cobbled streets, Madrid oozes an effortless style. There’s no need to boast about the capital’s world-class shopping, rich culture or relentlessly energetic nightlife, you’ll discover them when you get here. An easy-going and friendly city, Madrid casually invites visitors rather than demanding their attention. The Madrileños don’t feel the need to talk up their city: they prefer to sit back, enjoy the sun-soaked atmosphere and pity those who are missing out.

Best of the Beaten Track

The buzzing Gran Vía area is a Mecca for fun-loving residents and tourists alike. Madrid’s answer to Oxford Street, Piccadilly Circus and Broadway all rolled in to one, this is where you find the city’s main entertainment. Enjoy a grandiose musical at Plaza de Callao, treat yourself to a cocktail on the rooftop of the Círculo de Bellas Artes, or simply browse the shopping haven of Gran Vía and Sol.

Dancing in the park

If all this leaves you thirsty for culture, then head to the Prado and Reina Sofía museums. Art-lovers flock to both in droves to ponder some of Europe’s most famous artwork. While the Prado showcases earlier artists such as El Greco and Goya, the Reina Sofía houses more contemporary work. Picasso’s Guernica is the museum’s top crowd-puller and visitors stop in their tracks to stare at this mind-boggling interpretation of the Spanish Civil War.

When your energy starts to flag, the Parque del Buen Retiro provides the perfect playground for a lazy afternoon in the sun. An oasis of greenery in Madrid’s hectic core, visitors come here to soak up the rays among the park’s balmy trees and landscape gardens. But the Retiro isn’t just a pretty face – cutting-edge artwork is always on display here and Madrid’s performers regularly grace the park’s picturesque paths. Although if it’s pure piece and quiet you’re after, the lake area is best avoided – a zealous drummer will usually spring to life here around lunchtime, with energetic sun-worshippers dancing to the beat.

Hipsters’ Guide

Malasaña is the district of choice among the young and trendy Madrid crowd. The eclectic mix of cluttered cafés, offbeat bars and boutique shops is a haven for those seeking to escape the McDonald’s and Starbucks chains of the city centre. While the area may not be picture perfect – graffiti adorns many of Malasaña’s walls and shutters – its cobbled streets exude a quirky charm.

The colourful and quirky Malasana district

Calle Fuencarral is best for designer boutiques and independent outlets, while chic bars and cafés lie on the neighbouring side streets. Mexican bar La Botica de la Condesa is always home to a lively atmosphere, with plenty of unusual cocktails and authentic light bites on the menu. And if you’re in the mood for a more tranquil setting, the artistic Café Manuela invites passers-by to while away the afternoon – board games are even on hand for when the conversation runs dry.

Experience and Events

Nowhere knows how to throw a fiesta like Madrid, and every local holiday invites a hedonistic mix of celebratory events, processions and revelry. San Isidro is perhaps the best time to experience Madrid in full party mode, marking the annual homage to Madrid’s rural patron saint. Celebrations start on May 15th, as Madrileños don ceremonial dress and open air performances take place in every corner of the city. The Plaza Mayor is always particularly lively, often playing host to traditional dance and theatre productions.

Two for a euro...

The bustling El Rastro market is also a great way to experience a colourful slice of Madrid while picking up a thrifty deal. Traders have set up their stalls here every Sunday for nearly five centuries, attracting tourists and bargain hunters alike. Granted, it may take a while to find a gem among the maze of market stalls, but you’ll soon find haggling can get you everywhere.

Of course, no football fan comes to Madrid without paying a visit to Real Madrid’s legendary stadium. Football is a sacred sport here, but take care if you expect every local bar to be backing Real Madrid all the way. There’s a bitter rivalry between Madrid’s flagship team and the underdog Atlético club, said to be supported by the ‘real Madrileños’. Proudly displaying a Cristiano Ronaldo shirt can attract more abuse than you may expect.

Pillow Talk

The Hotel de las Letras is one of Madrid’s most stylish haunts, designed around the unusual combination of luxury and literacy. While guests are treated to five-star surroundings, including a sleek rooftop bar overlooking Gran Vía, there’s also a relaxing library for when the jet-set lifestyle becomes too much. Despite the cheesy ‘Room mate’ gimmick – each hotel in the chain is named after an attractive slumber partner – the Mario hotel is perfect for reasonably-priced rooms in the central district. With a rooftop bar, modern decor and complimentary fruit at reception, you’ll still feel like you’re in the lap of luxury. And if you’re on a budget, Cat’s Hostel offers cheap and cheerful accommodation, with the best value bar in the city.

Fork Out

Top tapas in the El Tigre cider house

Eating ham is practically a religion here in Madrid, with many tapas bars choosing to devote themselves to various types of jamón iberico. For a taste of authentic tapas without splashing the cash, head down to El Tigre, where every drink is served with a selection of the day’s dishes. This is best visited during the week though – weekends can see crowds rushing in for the prospect of free chorizo and patatas bravas. Meanwhile, Casa Lucio delivers top class Castillian food, serving traditional dishes such as cocido (Madrid-style stew). And fear not if you’re vegetarian – Malasaña’s restaurants offer plenty of delicious alternatives to ham. Check out the extravagant Isla del Tesoro (‘Treasure Island’) for the best meat-free cuisine Madrid has to offer.

Drop In

Madrid’s nightlife is famously energetic and continues well into the morning, when revellers hungrily grab a breakfast remedy of chocolate and churros. The central district of Sol is a hub of nocturnal activity, with many frequenting lively, no-frills hotspots such as El Sol. Alternatively, stroll around Malasaña’s bars for a more chilled-out experience – the oriental Areia and authentically Spanish El 2 De are both local favourites. And if it’s pure luxury you’re after, take a trip to the Lolita Lounge for extravagant cocktails, or Kapital for a bling-filled dancefloor and R’n’B beats.

Getting There

Easyjet and Ryanair fly to Madrid from a number of UK airports and other major cities around Europe, with traditional carriers such as BA, Iberia, Air Europa, Vueling and Spanair also operating routes. A good way to compare prices is on Cheapflights.co.uk. Trenhotel also run overnight trains from Lisbon and Paris; whilst fast, if not cheap, trains will also get you to and from the likes of Barcelona, Valencia and Sevilla within Spain if Madrid is part of a grander tour.

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The Time Out website is packed full of ways to enjoy the city, from the most authentic flamenco bars to the best way to spot a local bargain. What Madrid gives travellers a useful area by area guide to the city, while About Madrid has a number of practical tips and links.

Hard Copy & Silver Screen

Guidebooks-wise, Lonely Planet and Eyewitness guides give a great picture of the city, while Frommer’s Madrid Day by Day has plenty of ideas in a handy, pocket-sized format. Depending on your nationality, a story about a Spanish mercenary out to kill two Englishmen in Madrid may or may not be comfortable reading – however the swashbuckling adventures of Captain Alatriste by Pérez-Reverte is the kind of romp Dumas would be proud to pen. Another hugely enjoyable epic is the Manuscript Found in Saragossa, a bizarre series of stories within stories set in Spain by the eccentric Polish Count Potocki. For films set in Madrid, look no further than Abre Los Ojos, the original Spanish (and needless to say infinitely better) version of Vanilla Sky.

Soundtrack to the City

Te Dejo Madrid – Shakira
Desde Madrid – Nika
Madrid – Thalia
Puedes Contar Conmigo – La Oreja de Van Gogh
Barrio – Javier Álvarez

Ibiza in the off-season is so quiet you can grow a beard and pretend to be Tom Hanks...

The catch of the day

The South is where we stayed and is characterized by a perfect mélange of long, sandy beaches and hidden away coves to be discovered at the end of winding country roads, surrounded by pine trees and lemon groves. With public transport to Ibiza’s quieter areas pretty much non-existent, it’s an absolute must to hire a car if you want to explore the island. Alternatively, like the hippy and dog we gave a lift to one day, you could try your luck hitch-hiking. (I only hope that if you do take advantage of a free ride, you’ll exercise better bladder control than they did).

Rockin' not ravin' at Es Vedra

In terms of beaches you will be spoilt for choice on the South of the island, with variety and quality enough to warm the cockles of even the fussiest of aficionados. Most of them are smallish coves and nearly every one of them has a beach bar (known locally as chiringuitos) where you can sample the catch of the day, invariably served with bread (that ranges from freshly-baked to hardly edible) and lashings of aioli (garlic mayonnaise).

A sandy siesta beckons...

Other noteworthy beaches are Las Salinas, where the rich and famous strut their tanned torsos, and Cala Vedalla, a small cove with diving and boating nestled within a picture-perfect Ibizan village. One to avoid if you are looking for Balearic bliss is Playa del Bossa. Although Del Bossa is the most famous beach on the island, and decent enough in its own right, it is too busy in the high-season for some ‘me-and-you’ time, and the deserted shabby bars in the off season make it feel like an apocalyptic Mad Max scenario, minus Tina Turner and a small hairy wolf-boy.

The happy couple frolic on yet another deserted beach

A word of warning, before you book yourself a flight, Ibiza is not one for the tight-fisted Don Juan. With meals ranging from 60 – 120 euros for two, drinks and club entrance fees occasionally eye-popping and taxis meters whirring upwards as they whizz up and down the winding roads, you will need a fair bit of dinero to enjoy the best the island has to offer. However, your money will be well spent, though you could soon be forking out again for ring-finger accessories if the holiday goes exceptionally well…

Getting There

There are a host of cheap flights to Ibiza from the UK with operators including Easyjet, Ryanair and Jet2. German Wings, Air Berlin, Transavia and Smart Wings fly from other destinations in Europe. From mainland Spain you’re best trying Vueling. You can also catch a boat from Barcelona, although tickets are often more expensive than flying so don’t expect a cut price journey. (Ben flew return with Ryanair from London Stansted from around 80 GBP per person. He hired a car from Do You Spain).

More Juice

For more info on Ibiza try the detailed travel guide Ibiza Spotlight, or the rather hip blog and newzine White Ibiza.

Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau

Ornamentation on the hospital pavilions

Palau de la Musica Catalana

Antoni Rigalt's inverted dome in the Palau's auditorium

Casa Terrades

A Gothic fairytale castle in Barcelona

Caixa Forum

Industrial-sized exhibition centre

Fundacio Tapies

A friendly building behind an intimidating facade

If you want to compare the styles of Barcelona’s great trio of Modernista architects, you can actually see the work of all three side-by-side on the so-called ‘Manzana de la Discordia’ or Apple of Dischord (a nice pun on the Greek saying, incorporating the Spanish use of the word apple, which also to mean block), on the Passeig de Gracia boulevard. Gaudi’s Casa Batllo sits next to Puig i Cadafalch’s Casa Amatller, which is next to Domenech i Montaner’s Casa Lleo Morera.

For more info on the Catalan capital in general and plenty of hip recommendations, check out Urban Travel Blog’s juicy city guide to Barcelona.