Danube beaches, UFO-topped bridges and the best dumplings south of Poland, Bratislava makes for a fun and leftfield city break destination. Here with her perfect weekend itinerary is Taylor Geiger.
Slovakia’s capital city is often overshadowed by its trendy neighbors, Vienna and Budapest. Bratislava is like the cute and quirky little sister to these two impressive capital cities. While you won’t find royal residences to rival the Hapsburg palaces in Vienna nor the up-till-dawn nightlife of Budapest, a long weekend in Bratislava offers a pretty pastel-colored Old Town, an impressive castle on a hill, a rich cafe culture, and several fascinating museums.
Although Bratislava is a sprawling metropolis with several suburbs and a population of 412,000, the historic Old Town and the majority of the tourist attractions are easily accessible in a compact, walkable section of town. The cobblestones streets of the Old Town are for pedestrians only, and if you visit in the warmer months, you’ll get swept up in a steady stream of tourists making their way to St. Martin’s Cathedral, a pilgrimage site which continues to attract visitors from all over the world today.
Best of the Beaten Track
First up on your itinerary and you’ll want to make your way to Hlavné námestie, the city’s main square and what may be called Bratislava’s living room, as it plays host to several events and festivals each year.
Directly on the square, you’ll find the Museum of the City of Bratislava, which relates several centuries of Bratislava’s history to visitors in a visual and informative way. One of the best views over the Old Town is from the top of the Old Town Hall clock tower, part of the museums exhibit.
Continuing through the courtyard of the museum will bring you to the Primatial Palace, with its stunning Hall of Mirrors, it is well worth a visit. The Palace, with its elaborate decor, has long been a meeting place for Bratislava’s elite, and is still used for events of state today.
If you’re interested in royal residences, consider visiting Bratislava’s castle, perched on a small hill overlooking the old town. A short 15 minute walk will bring you up to the castle grounds, where you can elect to enter the fortress to see the Castle Museum of History, stroll through the Baroque Gardens, or enjoy local foods with great views in the restaurant.
Bratislava has no shortage of spectacular vantage points, so if you haven’t had enough of the views from the Castle Hill, then cross over the river to take the elevator to the top of Bratislava’s funky-looking UFO Tower. By far the best place to watch the sunset with a drink in hand, you’ll find an observation deck and an award-winning panoramic restaurant at 95 meters up.
If the weather is nice, you can also consider a short hike up Kazmik hill and take in the views from even higher up atop the TV tower.
If you visit during the summer, a boat cruise is a fabulous way to get out on the river and enjoy the breeze to stay cool. River cruise boats transport passengers from a dock near the Old Town to the nearby Devin Castle, a castle whose origins date back to the 1300s.
You can also hop aboard a boat to check out the sculptures and paintings at the Danubiana Meulensteen Museum of Modern Art.
Hipster’s Guide
When you’re looking for that perfect artsy Insta pic from Bratislava, take a walk to the hideous Slovak National Radio Building. Ever since The Telegraph named it one of the ugliest buildings in the world, those in-the-know flock there for a photo.
If it’s a warm day, you’ll find most of the millennials at Maggio Beach, a fake beach area on the banks of the Danube outfitted with just about everything you’d need to pretend you are actually at the seaside; beach bar included.
If edgy, contemporary art is more your thing, you won’t want to miss DOT. Contemporary Art Gallery. And Bratislava is home to lots of street art, so take to the streets around the old town with open eyes!
Experience & Events
Any day that you visit Bratislava is a good day to partake in the Slovak culinary experience of enjoying a soup before every meal, and savoring it with gusto. Every day you stay in this captivating city is also a good day in which to enjoy a mid-afternoon cake and coffee hour. However, there are certain annual events which are worth planning your trip around.
Every summer, the Cultural Summer and Castle Festival runs from June until August and features an impressive line-up of musical, cultural, and gastronomic events highlighting the best that the city has to offer.
The Salon Piva typically takes place in spring and is the event-of-the-year for craft beer lovers, who can taste more than 400 types of craft beer from more than 80 local craft breweries in a fun-filled weekend event which takes place in the Old Market Hall.
Every October brings the White Night, a Contemporary Arts Festival which literally lights the city up for an evening of art viewing in galleries and along the streets in stands hosted by local artists.
Pillow Talk
If you decide to spend a few days exploring Bratislava, there’s absolutely no reason to stay somewhere boring. Several boats anchored on the Danube now offer unique accommodations, and the Dunajský Pivovar offers a panoramic deck bar and restaurant.
The Hotel Galeria Spirit offers the opportunity to sleep in a modern art gallery, with carefully curated modern abstract paintings and an art room onsite.
Or if you’re up for a splurge for a truly special and unique boutique hotel, look no further than the historic Roset Boutique Hotel.
Fork Out
Every morning you spend in Bratislava should be a morning spent drinking amazing coffee. The city has no shortage of cute cafes, both old and new. The more traditional, Viennese-style coffee houses can be found directly on the main square, whereas some of the more modern treasures require you to venture out a bit further. Check out Moj Bar on your way to visit the Art Noveau Blue Church for nice coffee with nice vibes. U Kubista is also a unique cafe which offers freshly baked cakes alongside some excellent cappuccinos.
Slovakia’s national dish is bryndza halusky, dumplings topped with a locally produced sheep’s cheese (called bryndza) as well as greasy bacon bits and sour cream. While it’s heavy, the flavors are incredible and seem to melt in your mouth. You can find tasty halusky in a cozy atmosphere at Slovak Pub.
Slovaks are also very passionate about soups, especially in the cooler months. If you visit during December, don’t miss the traditional Christmas cabbage soup, kapustnica.
Drop In
Bratislava’s nightlife scene is varied; with sophisticated wine bars, local pubs, some underground techno clubs, and even one crazy karaoke bar. Wild Thing is the karaoke bar, perfect to stop by later on in the evening when you’re in the mood to make new friends.
For the more sophisticated, we can’t possibly say enough good things about Grand Cru Wine Gallery. Not only do these guys have the best local Slovak wines in an amazing location in Old Town, they’ve also got a super friendly staff who will make sure you enjoy your evening out.
The young and young at heart should head to Subclub, an edgy club housed in an old military storage bunker underneath the Bratislava Castle.
Channels Club is another go-to for dancing the night away in a see and be-seen locale, boasting live DJs and/or drink specials 365 days per year.
Getting There
Bratislava’s airport is quite small, but RyanAir, Wizz Air, and Austrian Airlines make frequent trips directly from many other European capitals.
Alternatively, Bratislava has frequent and easy train and bus connections to both of the large international airports in Vienna (approx 1 hour 15 minutes) and Budapest (approx 2 hours and 30 minutes).
Bratislava is an ideal destination for those looking to get a bit off the usual tourist track whilst not too far away from some of the usual hotspots.
More Juice
Visit Bratislava, an initiative of the local tourism board, is a great source for finding out more about what to see and do in Slovakia’s capital city.
Travel in Slovakia provides additional info, as well as great suggestions for day trips and things to do in the surrounding region.
Welcome to Bratislava is a great blog written by local with tons of tips to enhance your visit.
The Slovak Spectator is the country’s only English language news source.
Hard Copy
Bradt Travel Guides has one of the most comprehensive in-print travel guides to Bratislava. The Slovak Spectator also offers a recently updated guidebook for Bratislava.
For some local culture, check out one of Slovakia’s most famous authors, Balla, who is nicknamed the “Slovak Kafka” after the Czech satirist; In the Name of the Father and Other Stories is a must read for those interested in dark humour.
Silver Screen
One of the most successful Slovak films of the past 10 years is The Kandidate, which is all about political corruption and scandal, a popular theme for discussion in Slovakia. The film is about a fictional presidential campaign and his abuse of media, ads, and campaign funding.
Additionally, Blockbuster hit Red Sparrow includes several scenes shot in Slovakia’s capital city. Many of the “Russian” exteriors and interiors are indeed from Bratislava’s Old Town.
Behind Enemy Lines, a war-time story about the Bosnian war in the 1990’s was also shot primarily in filming studios in Bratislava as well as the surrounding countryside.
Soundtrack to the City
Run, Run, Run – Celeste Buckingham